 |
| This is part of the area in Torres del Paine that was burnt in 2005 by a Czech tourist, Jiri Smitak. 14,000 hectares burnt (about 7% of the park) in the Laguna Azul, Cebolla and Paine Waterfall areas. The cause was Jiri camping wild, ie in an area not designated for camping, in grassland! He improperly handling his gas cooking stove. He got the maximum $200 fine. The Czech Government stepped in (smartly) to pay for the restoration and replanting activities. The damage is obvious today when you head through the area. |
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Torres del Paine: 2005 fire damage seen in 2010.
Friday, December 30, 2011
Fire closes Torres del Paine National Park
Looks like a careless tourist has set off a massive fire on December 27 in Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia. By this morning (Dec 30) a whopping 5,700 hectares were burnt already, according to Bloomberg, and counting (8,500 hectares this afternoon...). Winds of 90+ km/h are fanning the rapidly growing fire.
This traveller's Youtube video taken from a bus shows the fire's extent vividly.
The fire is uncontrollable and the Park has been closed completely now; tourists and trekkers have been evacuated.
TdP is known for its strong winds. Sparks fly far and wide (even a badly handled camping stove can set off a major blaze as happened in 2005) and with the very dry conditions this year, fire hazards were very high. This fire started just off the trail, at Lake Grey. Park Rangers believe it might have been a camp fire that had not been extinguished properly. Hope they find whoever is responsible and hold them to account.
For local coverage, there are local news links here and here (both are Lonely Planet Forum links to Chilean news media)
This is one area in the world where human-made forest fires are not needed to clear the underbrush. I hope the winds let up so that this fire can be extinguished and the ground erosion that follows can be stopped before it takes hold.
This traveller's Youtube video taken from a bus shows the fire's extent vividly.
The fire is uncontrollable and the Park has been closed completely now; tourists and trekkers have been evacuated.
TdP is known for its strong winds. Sparks fly far and wide (even a badly handled camping stove can set off a major blaze as happened in 2005) and with the very dry conditions this year, fire hazards were very high. This fire started just off the trail, at Lake Grey. Park Rangers believe it might have been a camp fire that had not been extinguished properly. Hope they find whoever is responsible and hold them to account.
For local coverage, there are local news links here and here (both are Lonely Planet Forum links to Chilean news media)
This is one area in the world where human-made forest fires are not needed to clear the underbrush. I hope the winds let up so that this fire can be extinguished and the ground erosion that follows can be stopped before it takes hold.
 |
| We took this photo at Grande Paine last year - part of the W Circuit - which has been affected by the fire. Note, the wind... |
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| This is on the way from Grey Camp to Grande Paine/Pehoe. Sounds like all this and much more has been burnt. |
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Red Book Entry: November 14, 2010
The biggest and most important journal entry for me today is to say that I am feeling sooo much better than I did yesterday. A couple of things conspired to make day six of our trek a bit of a challenging one. First of all, the "allergy" I thought I had turned out to be a full blown cold complete with energy sucking properties. The other factor was the lack of energy from simply not eating what my body needed in order to hike up Pico Austria at 5,350m. It was difficult and took all of the mental might I had. Heading up to 5,350m is not what you want to be doing when you bonk.
The good news to the story is that I did make it to the summit, moving very, very slowly, one step at a time (with each one feeling as if it was the last one I could take). I so wanted to close my eyes and rest. We ate lunch at the summit; all I could manage was the cheese followed by chocolate for a quick hit of energy. I closed my eyes and dozed for a bit and was happy that I actually was able to recover enough to complete the trek to our next camp.
As with all the other camps, the location was awesome; it was by a laguna, with a river and had a view of a gorgeous glacier. It was only around 1:30 when we arrived and the sun was still warming. I layed outside to rest for a bit before heading into the tent for a full-on rest. Supper was at 6:30 and I had to drag myself of the tent to head to the cook tent for some sustenance. I managed to make it through supper but could not stay for mate. Off I went with my water bottle filled with hot camomile tea. I did not end up taking even one sip because I simply passed out. I did not wake up to go to the bathroom which, given my record, is saying a lot. When I did finally wake up in the morning I was super hot because the sun was beating down on the tent.
Another blue sky day!
The pattern so far has been for full blue sky in the morning, followed by clouds moving in, followed (or not) by hail or rain. You certainly have to be ready for every type of weather while trekking here. I find myself one minute hauling clothes off and the next, putting it all back on. Certainly when we reach the passes, which range from 4,800m to 5,100m, there is usually more wind and it's definitely cooler.
Each day has really been a different experience, depending in part on the character of each valley. We have hiked through deserts; rocky terrain; bogey areas and have hiked down steep pitches of scree. (I am not exaggerating when I say that the pitch has been as much as 40 degrees). There have been many lagunas, all offering up various greens, blues and opals. There have also been unending herds of llamas (lovely creatures) and some herds of alpaca (the pure white ones apparently fetch more money than the ones of other colours; not sure how many colours they "come in" but I have seen gorgeous brown ones as well). They have quite a unique look with their heads seeming large because only their bodies are sheared.
The good news to the story is that I did make it to the summit, moving very, very slowly, one step at a time (with each one feeling as if it was the last one I could take). I so wanted to close my eyes and rest. We ate lunch at the summit; all I could manage was the cheese followed by chocolate for a quick hit of energy. I closed my eyes and dozed for a bit and was happy that I actually was able to recover enough to complete the trek to our next camp.
As with all the other camps, the location was awesome; it was by a laguna, with a river and had a view of a gorgeous glacier. It was only around 1:30 when we arrived and the sun was still warming. I layed outside to rest for a bit before heading into the tent for a full-on rest. Supper was at 6:30 and I had to drag myself of the tent to head to the cook tent for some sustenance. I managed to make it through supper but could not stay for mate. Off I went with my water bottle filled with hot camomile tea. I did not end up taking even one sip because I simply passed out. I did not wake up to go to the bathroom which, given my record, is saying a lot. When I did finally wake up in the morning I was super hot because the sun was beating down on the tent.
Another blue sky day!
The pattern so far has been for full blue sky in the morning, followed by clouds moving in, followed (or not) by hail or rain. You certainly have to be ready for every type of weather while trekking here. I find myself one minute hauling clothes off and the next, putting it all back on. Certainly when we reach the passes, which range from 4,800m to 5,100m, there is usually more wind and it's definitely cooler.
Each day has really been a different experience, depending in part on the character of each valley. We have hiked through deserts; rocky terrain; bogey areas and have hiked down steep pitches of scree. (I am not exaggerating when I say that the pitch has been as much as 40 degrees). There have been many lagunas, all offering up various greens, blues and opals. There have also been unending herds of llamas (lovely creatures) and some herds of alpaca (the pure white ones apparently fetch more money than the ones of other colours; not sure how many colours they "come in" but I have seen gorgeous brown ones as well). They have quite a unique look with their heads seeming large because only their bodies are sheared.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Red Book Entry: November 11, 2010
If one ever needed to remember just why it is such an amazing thing to be alive in this world, I invite them to come to Bolivia and take in the Andes, the people and the culture.
It is the evening of our fourth day and the light is spectacular -- that light that just envelops your soul. Llama are grazing across the laguna and a flock of sheep just ran by in a tidy bunch. The animals belong to the community; a random (or maybe not so random) scattering of three or four houses. Because nothing grows at this altitude, aside from Andean grasses, plants and some flowers, the community has a garden at around 4,100 to grow their vegetables.
Our two arriero friends, Hugo and Narcisio, left this evening to head home, roughly a four hour ride. (Two more lovely people I have had the opportunity to meet.) They both came in the cook tent (we were having tea) to say goodbye and we exchanged handshakes and hugs. Warm people.
Victoria, Felix's wife, joined us this evening and will be hanging out for the next three days. Victoria was traditionally dressed in her full skirt and layering of tops and a wrap. Women in the country dress traditionally; they do not wear pants. We all ate supper together (yummy, as usual) and there was much conversation in Aymara as well as in Spanish. Victoria was very quiet but did have a good laugh at the end when we told her the two Aymara words we knew: "hello" and "crucillo" which together, give you "Hello monkey."
It is the evening of our fourth day and the light is spectacular -- that light that just envelops your soul. Llama are grazing across the laguna and a flock of sheep just ran by in a tidy bunch. The animals belong to the community; a random (or maybe not so random) scattering of three or four houses. Because nothing grows at this altitude, aside from Andean grasses, plants and some flowers, the community has a garden at around 4,100 to grow their vegetables.
Our two arriero friends, Hugo and Narcisio, left this evening to head home, roughly a four hour ride. (Two more lovely people I have had the opportunity to meet.) They both came in the cook tent (we were having tea) to say goodbye and we exchanged handshakes and hugs. Warm people.
Victoria, Felix's wife, joined us this evening and will be hanging out for the next three days. Victoria was traditionally dressed in her full skirt and layering of tops and a wrap. Women in the country dress traditionally; they do not wear pants. We all ate supper together (yummy, as usual) and there was much conversation in Aymara as well as in Spanish. Victoria was very quiet but did have a good laugh at the end when we told her the two Aymara words we knew: "hello" and "crucillo" which together, give you "Hello monkey."
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Reb Book Entry: November 9, 2010
We are now set up in our second camp of our 12-day trek in the Cordillera Real [Bolivia]. We are a team of four: the guide, Andres; the cook, Felix; and two arrieros, Hugo and Narciso. And of course, our four-legged friends: three horses (with colourful tassles between their beautiful eyes) and two donkeys.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 29, 2010
We went over our last pass of this phenomenal trek shortly after leaving our camp at 4,500m. I am not sure what was going on with my belly but it felt as if I had five portions of breakfast. I had woken up around 6:30, no longer starving. Perhaps my body was a bit overworked trying to stay warm having to get up four times during the night to go to the bathroom. It sure is hard to drag myself out of my warm cocoon into the cold night. The bonus, however, is seeing the phenomenal night skies; brilliant black speckled with dazzling stars (I don't know constellations in my part of the hemisphere let alone those in South America -- suffice it to say that the stars are impressive) and a waning moon (which was still with us in a bright blue sky as we headed out of camp at 8:00).
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Red Book Entry: A Little Tune
Libre como el aire
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Red Book Entry: October 28, 2010
I have been recording the trek day by day as I find it overwhelming to try and capture all that I see, all that I experience and all the emotions that move through me.
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 25, 2010
We are at the end of day five of our amazing trek. We started earlier today, with breakfast at 7:00 (the delight this morning, along with the "usual" pot of coffee, was a hot cereal made with rice). I did not know that rice grew in Peru, as does just about everthing else.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
Red Book Entry: Mountain Menu
Desayuno
Almuerzo
- Flacky pastry stuffed with apples and cinnamon
- Fresh banana (one of three varieties grown here)
- Lactose-free yogurt drink
_______________
- Pancakes
- Coffee (Peruvian, of course)
- Toast with honey or jam
- Oatmeal
- Coffee
- Fresh mango and kiwi
- Yogurt drink and granola
- Coffee
Almuerzo
- Quinoa salad (red onion, nut of some sort, herbs, tangerines ...)
- Super delicious because it was eaten on a mountain
- Juice
- Make-your-own sandwich with hommus, cucumber and carrots
- Mate de coca
- Tangerine
- Make-your-own sandwich with cheese (cow, incredibly fresh),avocados!, tomatoes and boston lettuce
- Mate de coca
- Crackers with peanut butter (Humberto was not with us : (
- Boston lettuce, yellow potatoes, olives, sauce
- Mate de coca
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 21, 2010
Ready, set, trek! Some members of our adventure team picked us up at Albergue Churup at the bright and early hour of 6:15. Inga and I had packed everything the night before and had a shower (the last one for 10 days) so we were all set to go in the morning.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
A year ago today ...
We reached the summit of 6,088 m (19,975 feet) high Huayna Potosi in the Cordillera Real in Bolivia. Re-reading our post from that awesome adventure today.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18 (again)
Laguna Churup. What can I say to truly reflect its magnificence? Cecilia gave us some beta on how to get to the trailhead so off we went going "... straight down the road. Just before it starts to curve left, turn right unto a herd path. You will see a partially built building. Turn just past the trees."
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18, 2010
Today marks the end of our first week in S.A. And, as is the case when I travel, time expands. I can't quite wrap my mind around all of the experiences I have had.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 14, 2010
We took a cab from Albergue Churup to El Pinar to start our first hike. El Pinar is a new "modern" gated community that was constructed about seven years ago to house the people who work for one of the mines.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
Monday, November 14, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 13, 2010
I still can't believe that I am in Peru, being in another time and space and living very differently from my regular world.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Cena a la chilena :)
First Walleye Ceviche. The marinade was made with lime, red wine vinegar, cilantro, onions, red peppers, hot chili peppers, sea salt.
The vegetarian version used the identical marinade on fresh morzarella. (The fish after nearly an hour of "cooking" was perfect. The cheese, well, it works if you are vegetarian.)
The main course was this awesome Pebre and Tofu dish with stuffed bell peppers served on hydroponic boston lettuce. Simmered for about 30 minutes and served with Pebre (cold).
The wine selection included whites from New Zealand (Oyster and Monkey Bay) and this really lovely, smooth Apothic Red from California that Sylvie brought.
Lemon meringue pie - by our pal Jan - topped it all off just so.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Chilean dinner
Putting into practice once again what we learned with chef Gonzalo Lara at Cafe Vinilo in Valparaiso, Chile. They are on Facebook here.
We've prepared Ceviche a la Chilena (using Walleye and fresh Mozarella for the vegetarian version) for the starter. Then we made Pebre - an awesome, ubiquitous Chilean salsa - that we are using to marinate the main comprised of slow fried tofu strips and baked bell peppers stuffed with quinoa, mushroom and zucchini.
Desert will be arriving with one of our guest. Pictures will be posted once everything is plated :)
We've prepared Ceviche a la Chilena (using Walleye and fresh Mozarella for the vegetarian version) for the starter. Then we made Pebre - an awesome, ubiquitous Chilean salsa - that we are using to marinate the main comprised of slow fried tofu strips and baked bell peppers stuffed with quinoa, mushroom and zucchini.
Desert will be arriving with one of our guest. Pictures will be posted once everything is plated :)
Friday, November 11, 2011
Patagonia Trip Planning
We've spent about 5 weeks in Patagonia so far: first time in 2007 when we went to the small town of El Bolson, Argentina after our trek to Basecamp at Aconcagua and then all of December 2010 as part of our 3 months Andean trip spanning Peru, Bolivia and Chile.
I am scheming already: can we live there - trekking and climbing mountains - for 3 months again? More boldly, how can travelling become what I do?
Meanwhile I am putting pre-requisites in place:
I'm continuing my Spanish studies begun in early 2010 at UNAM. And we are looking into training re: independent mountaineering skills. We also want to spend some time in the Adirondaks for winter ascents of some of the High Peaks. And we are checking into ski trips to the mountains of Colorado.
More than dreams.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
180 South = Trip planning!
We just watched this awesome movie on DVD. There are a few stars in it but none greater than Patagonia itself. I love Patagonia.
I learned that there's a new park about to open to the public: Conservacion Patagonica. Who's behind this new park? A couple of Americans; one who once was a blacksmith, climber and surfer and started first Black Diamond and then, well, Patagonia, and the other the chap who started The North Face and later ESPRIT.
The footage in the movie is everything I have ever seen and loved about being in Patagonia. And, it conspires with some trip planning: we have begun to think about climbing Aconcagua and when you go that far south it's only natural to want to spend a little more time ... and it is an objective that will take some training to do well.
Meanwhile, check out this movie to see for yourself what it is all about.
I learned that there's a new park about to open to the public: Conservacion Patagonica. Who's behind this new park? A couple of Americans; one who once was a blacksmith, climber and surfer and started first Black Diamond and then, well, Patagonia, and the other the chap who started The North Face and later ESPRIT.
The footage in the movie is everything I have ever seen and loved about being in Patagonia. And, it conspires with some trip planning: we have begun to think about climbing Aconcagua and when you go that far south it's only natural to want to spend a little more time ... and it is an objective that will take some training to do well.
Meanwhile, check out this movie to see for yourself what it is all about.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Larger than life
Monday, October 24, 2011
Yukon Wildlife Preserve
Driving the Alaska Highway
It's a gorgeous sunny day here. Snow's been falling and a few patches even now have not had enough warmth from the sun to melt away.
It's quiet out here. Few people around in this stunning scenery.
Valley and cliff tops
Today I am planning on heading up on the Alaska Highway a bit and then visiting the Wildlife Preserve about 25 minutes from town.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Sculpture in Whitehorse
The third is outside the Transportation Museum near the airport, which is just moments from downtown.
Daylight in Whitehorse
Whitehorse is north of 60 and its days are quite a bit "shorter" than in Ottawa. Sunrise today is at about 8:45 am for 10 hours of daylight. In December the shortest day will have about 5 hours of daylight. With shortening days the sun doesn't rise very high: this picture shows the sun at noon yesterday. And the snow's been flying.
The Yukon River runs through Whitehorse on its way to Dawson City and Alaska. It's a fast moving river that is used for travel by boat, canoe, kayak and celebrated in the other Yukon Quest each June.
Canada's highest mountain, Mt Logan, is just west of Whitehorse in the St Elias mountain range which is part of Kluane National Park.
Unlike NWT and Nunavut, there are a few roads that connect remote parts and the Dempster Highway even reaches to Inuvik, NWT in the Mackenzie Delta near the Arctic Ocean.
There are plenty of adventures to be had here. Nature truly is big in Canada's northern territories. I'd love to come back here with Jan and with lots of time to hike, paddle, climb and meet the local people.
Saturday, October 22, 2011
Whitehorse's awesome Burnt Toast Cafe
I just got to Whitehorse after being cooped up in my Edmonton hotel for a day and a half in meetings and trying to keep my cold at bay.
The cold's not getting any better. But with our downtown Whitehorse, YK location I did take a stroll along some city streets and while at the local liquor store got a dinner recommendation that indeed was to die for.
The pics speak for themselves: Oktoberfest sausage with blue cheese and garlic mashed potatoes, pulled pork tacos and this Peanut butter pie with whipped cream and strawberries for desert.
The Burnt Toast Cafe is awesome: awesome staff, great food, excellent vibe and at a totally reasonable price! I'll be back before heading home on the 25th :)
Plus, I'll have a bit of time to explore. the city and area quite apart from doing work.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
Flying in my first air taxi
I've never been on a smaller commercial airplane (20 seats). And I loved it; it's like a taxi, except in an hour I'm 450 km to the west of where I started.
- Hand-written boarding pass.
- General seating - the further back the less noisy.
- On-time departure and arrival.
- Speediest boarding and deplaning ever (7 passengers)
- Watch pilots fly.
- No flight attendants
- No snacks or drinks
- No safety demo (the signage was obvious)
- No bathroom (it's a 1 hour flight)
Bearskin Airlines flies to a bunch of not-so-major cities. I flew from Ottawa to Kitchener-Waterloo.
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Carry that load
Just to give the effort some perspective, Jan's carrying about 1/3 of her body weight on her back here - so strong!
The Gregory Deva 70 performed well for both of us again this trip as it did during our 3 months of trekking in South America recently. The women's specific engineering does make a difference in this pack made for hiking.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Weathering 5 days in Algonquin back country
Over 5 days and 4 nights we tackled the Western Upland backpacking trail - loop 1, 2 and part of loop 3 - this past Labour Day Weekend. We entered the Park Saturday morning to pick up our back country permit at the West Gate on Highway 60. The warden informed us that no bears had been sighted recently and that "mostly we deal with campground bears because front country campers often leave feed out." With that assurance we made our way to the trail head at km 3, parked and changed into our hiking garb.
It was very hot, so we were thankful that the trail is in the trees, reducing the temperature somewhat. Still, we worked to stay hydrated as we headed up toward Eu Lake for our first night's camp. With our late-morning start, we were glad to have less than 4 hours on the trail.
We set up camp - a few rain drops made us hurry - then relaxed by the lake, made dinner and a campfire before heading off to sleep.
Overnight the rain hit and by morning it was torrential. While our interior tent stayed dry we realized we had set up in a basin where water gathered in a large puddle underneath one side! Still we managed to take down without too much trouble, packed up and with peanut butter sandwiches for breakfast we headed out on the trail to Pincher Lake South.
This second day was tough with packs weighing around 45 lbs, lots of rain and heat along the way. We worked the single track trail which is more rugged on the second loop. Jan saw a black bear just off the trail south of Samos Lake, about 2 hours from our camp site. She says it looked at us rather quizzically and trotted off when we backtracked to give it some space. We arrived at Pincher an hour before dark after close to 8 hours on trail. With the wild weather we got treated to an amazing sunset while we set up camp, strung up the tarp as a wind barrier, pumped water, cooked dinner, and ate into the dark.
The next day, we had an option for a long hike (8 hours) or a shorter hike (4 hours) to reach Brown Lake. We opted for the shorter hike which kept this trip fun. We enjoyed Pincher Lake a little longer in the morning. We hiked through wet grasses and ferns on tight single track on this third loop. The rain held off - the wind picked up. When we got to our campsite at Brown Lake, situated in a quite open set up, the wind was whipping the spray off the lake. We got out gloves and toques, and layered clothes to stay warm. Our dragonfly stove with its bit of wind shelter performed well and we enjoyed a super tasty hot dinner.
The further we got into the park the fewer people we encountered. While we saw 4 groups on day 2, we met no one on day 3.We did see plenty of wildlife evidence along the trail though and a few foot steps, too.
Day 4 would be a long day, similar to day 2, so we aimed at an early start, and sort of got one. A lone hiker came down the trail and walked into camp to get water. He hung out and chatted as we had coffee and Jan's dressed up oatmeal. It was nice to see another human. He headed off as we packed up. We needed to cover about 19 km to get to Thunder Lake. We planned on 8 hours hoping for something closer to 7. We headed back to the second loop and then around the eastern part of the trail. We passed some beautiful lakes and toward the end of our hike ran into our breakfast companion and another couple of hikers.
When we got to Thunder Lake in 7 hours and 17 minutes (!), we were happy. It had been a pleasantly warm day, it was dry, the trail was quite fast to hike even as it featured plenty of steep ups and downs. I did manage to slip off a log and went deep into a boggy puddle with one leg. Quick action meant that most of the liquid stayed out of the boot at least. Still the added moisture made my already chewed up heels a little worse; Jan meanwhile developed a sizable blister on her big toe. Moleskin, second skin and tape served to halt further damage.
We enjoyed another gorgeous campsite, again with no one else in sight. We made a lovely dinner, took some photos, stretched a little, and were excited that our food supplies had dwindled as planned so we would not carry much extra out the next day. It would be a 11-12 km hike, making for a shorter day again. We stayed up by the camp fire late, as we dried socks, ate and chatted. We were about to spend our fourth night in the bush and felt good about how we had been coping with all the weather and the Park had thrown at us.
Our Twin Peaks tent once again proved its weather worthiness - in the 1.5 years we've used it is has seen us through the Adirondack High Peaks, Bolivia, Peru and Chile and now Algonquin. We used both our dragonfly stove and our tiny Doite Fireman backup stove we got in Chile last December to best effect. Packing everything in dry sacks kept our clothes and gear dry and allowed me to pack the tent wrapped in our tarp inside my pack regardless of wetness. Our new bear barrels for food, toiletries and garbage worked very well. Jan's portion packaging of our food worked great.
On our final day's hike out we did not see anyone on the trail: it was Wednesday and most people's long weekend had ended two days earlier.
This part of the trail is by far the easiest; flatter than all the other sections.
Now, we are looking to Algonquin's other, shorter back country trails and hiking the few kilometers of the Western Upland trail we didn't get to this time.
The stats:
70 km
26 hours on trail
Backpack Day 1: 45 lb and Day 5: 38 lb. Jan's was just a bit lighter.
 |
| Eu Lake at dusk. There is only one camp site at this lake. |
It was very hot, so we were thankful that the trail is in the trees, reducing the temperature somewhat. Still, we worked to stay hydrated as we headed up toward Eu Lake for our first night's camp. With our late-morning start, we were glad to have less than 4 hours on the trail.
We set up camp - a few rain drops made us hurry - then relaxed by the lake, made dinner and a campfire before heading off to sleep.
Overnight the rain hit and by morning it was torrential. While our interior tent stayed dry we realized we had set up in a basin where water gathered in a large puddle underneath one side! Still we managed to take down without too much trouble, packed up and with peanut butter sandwiches for breakfast we headed out on the trail to Pincher Lake South.
 |
| Spectacular sunset over Pincher Lake. |
This second day was tough with packs weighing around 45 lbs, lots of rain and heat along the way. We worked the single track trail which is more rugged on the second loop. Jan saw a black bear just off the trail south of Samos Lake, about 2 hours from our camp site. She says it looked at us rather quizzically and trotted off when we backtracked to give it some space. We arrived at Pincher an hour before dark after close to 8 hours on trail. With the wild weather we got treated to an amazing sunset while we set up camp, strung up the tarp as a wind barrier, pumped water, cooked dinner, and ate into the dark.
 |
| Inga setting up the dragonfly at Brown Lake camp. |
The further we got into the park the fewer people we encountered. While we saw 4 groups on day 2, we met no one on day 3.We did see plenty of wildlife evidence along the trail though and a few foot steps, too.
Day 4 would be a long day, similar to day 2, so we aimed at an early start, and sort of got one. A lone hiker came down the trail and walked into camp to get water. He hung out and chatted as we had coffee and Jan's dressed up oatmeal. It was nice to see another human. He headed off as we packed up. We needed to cover about 19 km to get to Thunder Lake. We planned on 8 hours hoping for something closer to 7. We headed back to the second loop and then around the eastern part of the trail. We passed some beautiful lakes and toward the end of our hike ran into our breakfast companion and another couple of hikers.
 |
| Jan dries socks at the camp fire on Thunder. |
When we got to Thunder Lake in 7 hours and 17 minutes (!), we were happy. It had been a pleasantly warm day, it was dry, the trail was quite fast to hike even as it featured plenty of steep ups and downs. I did manage to slip off a log and went deep into a boggy puddle with one leg. Quick action meant that most of the liquid stayed out of the boot at least. Still the added moisture made my already chewed up heels a little worse; Jan meanwhile developed a sizable blister on her big toe. Moleskin, second skin and tape served to halt further damage.
We enjoyed another gorgeous campsite, again with no one else in sight. We made a lovely dinner, took some photos, stretched a little, and were excited that our food supplies had dwindled as planned so we would not carry much extra out the next day. It would be a 11-12 km hike, making for a shorter day again. We stayed up by the camp fire late, as we dried socks, ate and chatted. We were about to spend our fourth night in the bush and felt good about how we had been coping with all the weather and the Park had thrown at us.
Our Twin Peaks tent once again proved its weather worthiness - in the 1.5 years we've used it is has seen us through the Adirondack High Peaks, Bolivia, Peru and Chile and now Algonquin. We used both our dragonfly stove and our tiny Doite Fireman backup stove we got in Chile last December to best effect. Packing everything in dry sacks kept our clothes and gear dry and allowed me to pack the tent wrapped in our tarp inside my pack regardless of wetness. Our new bear barrels for food, toiletries and garbage worked very well. Jan's portion packaging of our food worked great.
 |
| Self-portrait before hiking out from Thunder Lake. We're so pleased :) |
This part of the trail is by far the easiest; flatter than all the other sections.
Now, we are looking to Algonquin's other, shorter back country trails and hiking the few kilometers of the Western Upland trail we didn't get to this time.
The stats:
70 km
26 hours on trail
Backpack Day 1: 45 lb and Day 5: 38 lb. Jan's was just a bit lighter.
Saturday, September 3, 2011
Breakfast in Whitney
Friday, September 2, 2011
Algonquin Park backcountry hiking
Hurricane Irene wreaked havoc on the Adirondack's High Peaks region and the clean up is just taking shape.
So we scrambled to change our plans. La Mauricie National Park also had its backcountry trails closed due to the storm last weekend. We settled on Algonquin Park. Our first trip there in quite a few years. - and the very first time embarking on backcountry hiking. We will be hiking the Western Upland backcountry loop trail.
Tonight we drive to Whitney, so we can pick up our backcountry permit at the West Gate tomorrow morning and hike into EU Lake for our first over night on Saturday. From there we head to Pincher South, then Brown Lake, then Thunder Lake before heading back out to highway 60 and our car on Wednesday. 5 days, 4 nights in the backcountry, unsupported (no sat phone, no Spot, it'll be like in the old days) - should be fascinating and challenging. There's hoping the rain that's forecast will not fall! Once we are at our second nights camp at Picnher Lake there's little point in turning back.
My backpack weighs about 45 pounds (or just over 20 kg) as we head in. There's no cell coverage inside the park, so we are unlikely to post anything while out there. Pictures and stories to come at the end of next week :)
So we scrambled to change our plans. La Mauricie National Park also had its backcountry trails closed due to the storm last weekend. We settled on Algonquin Park. Our first trip there in quite a few years. - and the very first time embarking on backcountry hiking. We will be hiking the Western Upland backcountry loop trail.
Tonight we drive to Whitney, so we can pick up our backcountry permit at the West Gate tomorrow morning and hike into EU Lake for our first over night on Saturday. From there we head to Pincher South, then Brown Lake, then Thunder Lake before heading back out to highway 60 and our car on Wednesday. 5 days, 4 nights in the backcountry, unsupported (no sat phone, no Spot, it'll be like in the old days) - should be fascinating and challenging. There's hoping the rain that's forecast will not fall! Once we are at our second nights camp at Picnher Lake there's little point in turning back.
My backpack weighs about 45 pounds (or just over 20 kg) as we head in. There's no cell coverage inside the park, so we are unlikely to post anything while out there. Pictures and stories to come at the end of next week :)
Sunday, August 14, 2011
Air Canada's reputation management is atrocious
Well, we got to Montreal yesterday: Jan got her boarding pass 5 minutes before the plane was to take off - her checked luggage however was not put on the plane.
At arrival we learned it might come in on the 6:30 pm flight. So, off we go to our hotel check in and call the bride of the wedding we are here for to find out the start time. It is now! We change clothes - smartly we packed our wedding attire in carry on - and head off to the wedding, arriving on time even! Yeah! It was a great wedding :)
This morning there's still no bag and AC central baggage centre is proving less than service-oriented. One of the best lines: "Maybe the courier company doesn't work Sundays - you can call to find out." They would give a decent voucher for clothes shopping except Jan doesn't remember her Aeroplan number and they cannot look it up! WTF?!
Maybe that number is the secret to our troubles: Jan didn't have it handy when we booked our tickets so didn't enter it, but I entered mine. Who knows. Transparency is not an AC strength.
They seem hell-bent on turning us into something other than customers in a few short moments.
Reminds me of their attempt at a huge money grab at the end of our South American trip. Instead of paying them thousands of dollars we paid a local airline a few hundred to spend a fine day in Buenos Aires. Long story that one.
At arrival we learned it might come in on the 6:30 pm flight. So, off we go to our hotel check in and call the bride of the wedding we are here for to find out the start time. It is now! We change clothes - smartly we packed our wedding attire in carry on - and head off to the wedding, arriving on time even! Yeah! It was a great wedding :)
This morning there's still no bag and AC central baggage centre is proving less than service-oriented. One of the best lines: "Maybe the courier company doesn't work Sundays - you can call to find out." They would give a decent voucher for clothes shopping except Jan doesn't remember her Aeroplan number and they cannot look it up! WTF?!
Maybe that number is the secret to our troubles: Jan didn't have it handy when we booked our tickets so didn't enter it, but I entered mine. Who knows. Transparency is not an AC strength.
They seem hell-bent on turning us into something other than customers in a few short moments.
Reminds me of their attempt at a huge money grab at the end of our South American trip. Instead of paying them thousands of dollars we paid a local airline a few hundred to spend a fine day in Buenos Aires. Long story that one.
Saturday, August 13, 2011
St John's
Now we're on stand by at Air Canada - they have overbooked their flight again and we are with one seat instead of the two we paid for. We're on our way to a wedding in Montreal this evening and there's no other AC flight that could get us there today.
We're supposed to be patiently waiting until 30 min before departure to find out if others will "volunteer" to stay behind.
It's hard to see how the AC business model of overbooking makes sense. The stress they induce in their passengers and the palpable hate they foster because of their choice to treat customers like cattle is apparently still worth it for their bottomline. So much for all their talk about respect and service quality.
To boot this airport has 1 Tim Horton's and nothing else. I guess that's to make sure irate customers don't become drunk irate customers.
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Green Garden hike
Tuesday, August 9, 2011
Tablelands and more :)
Then off to the Discovery Centre to discover and charge batteries. Very handy those wall plugs. We hiked the Lookout Trail in the rain and then headed into Trout River for an early dinner. We went to renowned Seaside restaurant with great food and excellent musical additions by Kendra, future owner of the establishment.
This was followed by a great night in the cooking shelter meeting travellers and talking over beers and such 'til after 1. What better on a rain-drenched night?
This morning I made breakfast, we got all showered up and headed for a hike to the Tablelands (that's where we took these puics). It's trying to clear up and we are hopeful for sun tomorrow.
Sunday, August 7, 2011
Camp fire
Here's a fine pic of Jan by our campfire. Tomorrow we move camp to the Tablelands area.
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Sunset - aaaaahhhhh
Tomorrow we will take the boat up Western Brook Pond and do some shorter hikes around the coast.
Then off to the Tablelands.
Gros Morne
Friday, August 5, 2011
Gros Morne Day 1
Yesterday we drove from Placentia after an awesome breakfast at Philip's Cafe to just outside Gros Morne where we stayed at the Old Lincoln Cabins (apparently named after its old Lincoln car yet using a Pepsi can as its signature turn off - go figure). Danny, the owner was a fountain of knowledge about all things Gros Morne.This morning after a quick breakfast we headed into the Park and got the lay of the land Part 2 at the Visitors Centre. Proud owners of a 1 year group pass to all Parks Canada sites across the country we went to Green Point and set up our camping site right by the ocean.
The pic with the ocean show you the view from camp.
We also took in 3 hikes (#7, 8, 9 on the park map) for a total of about 3 hrs of hiking plus sightseeing over almost 13 km. Easy stuff that's high reward :)
Wednesday, August 3, 2011
Regatta Day to Cape St Mary's
After breakfast we headed off to Regatta Day. That seemed like a fine party already at 11 in the morning.
From there we got our car and then headed to St Mary's Bay ecological reserve about 175 km from St John's at the southern tip of Avalon Peninsula. Those bird colonies were awesome.
We're overnighting in Placentia Bay with a view of the ocean. Tomorrow we're off toward Gros Morne.
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Tuesday, August 2, 2011
St. John's dinner
We enjoyed a great dinner at Sprout Restaurant on Duckworth downtown. Great food. If you ever go here check the drawers in the tables for notes from patrons. We left one of our own of course :)
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry.
Heading to St John's, NL
In a couple of hours we will land in St. John's and will set out to discover a whole new province.
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry.
Monday, August 1, 2011
Church Point, NS
We've started our 2-week-east-coast-trip with a jaunt to Little Brook near Church Point, Nova Scotia. This weekend the Acadian Festival started so we took in the Parade. Definitely a community event.Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry.
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