On horseback to the Muela del Diablo -- que lindo!

Combining the grandeur of nature south of La Paz with horseback riding surely is a winning combination. On yet another blue sky day (!) we headed off with our guide to experience a three hour ride to the Muela del Diablo (the Devil´s Tooth). As well as being an impresse rock formation, the Muela del Diablo has a few myths attached to it. One is the story of a black slave who fled his keepers and found refuge in the rock. Folklore has it that he stole food and clothing from the locals and, once found out, met with his death in their hands. Another story has it that the Muela del Diablo was (is?) the spot locals went to in order to practice their sacrificial offerings (I like the first version of the story better, I must say, notwithstanding the death of the  poor man). In any event, as an adventurer on horseback, the Muela del Diablo and the "Lost Valley" we rode through made for some magnificent moments in nature.

At 3,850m with the infamous Muela del Diablo behind them, Jan and her horse, Muñeca, stand tall  (as they can),
beside Inga and her horse, Mulata.

The Muela del Diablo was only one of the several "western movie" rock formations.

Although inviting, the rock is not suitable for climbing as it is  more like  dense mud than rock. These  artistic shapes were formed over time by the downpours of the rainy seasons.

Inga was pleased with her ride. Ride´em, cowgirl.

The stable we went to had 12 horses, seven ponies, a couple of  alpacas, one lamb (who thought it was an alpaca),  as well as some pigs and chickens. Our horseback riding ended up being an afternoon at the farm.

Get it while the getting is good.

El día del peaton

Imagine this: Toronto or Montreal or Vancouver dedicating one day a year to a car-free day. Sounds quite unlikely, doesn't it? Well, that is exactly what La Paz does every first Sunday of September. This city of 1 million people, the world's highest de facto capital, celebrates El día de peaton (the day of pedestrians) to bring awareness to both the environment and health. It was mind blowing to experience La Paz without cars. This city bustles with cars and taxis and buses like no other city I have seen. As well, the carbon emissions are not controlled like in Canada, for instance. What you are left with is a lot of heavy spewing of exhaust. So for this city to turn around and be car-free is obviously a night and day experience.

We celebrated El día de peaton with the thousands of others who took part in the many activities set up across the city. On El Prado, one of the city´s main streets, Bolivians enjoyed more than three kilometres of fun such as skipping, art making, live street music, karaoke, not to mention getting around on various forms of transportation like stilts and inline skates and skateboards and bikes. This is not normally a city of biking so it was an unusual site. I must say that I held my breath a few times as I watched kids blasting downhill with great abandon. Good times.

These fine artists from El Alto, the city on the altiplano (the Andean plateau that sits at 4,100m) added to the festivities with their bright colours and enthusiastic music.

Ready and waiting for the budding artists.

Literally taking art to the street.

Giggling teenage boys testing out their double-dutch prowess. Hysterical.

A group of dancers put on an impromtu performance to the delight of all.

"Saxoman", as he called himself, put on a very fine, spirited performance, playing everything from traditional Bolivian music to jazz to Santana. Music truly is a universal language.

Can I be a "Saxoman" one day, too?

La Paz - acclimatization going well

We are in La Paz now. Just catching up on Sucre and trekking near Sucre posts :)

Our acclimatization plan is working very well: no headaches at all so far and no issues with nausea, food or anything either. This is splendid.

We have booked 4 day-trips for this week. First a visit to Tiwanaku, an ancient civilization perhaps more advanced than most others in its heyday, then a half-day horseback riding excurison, both of these will see us around 3,800 to 4,000m. The third and fourth day will see us getting high. First to about 4,700 on a day hike from Tuni, about 2 hours from La Paz, to Chiara Qota, a laguna we slept at 3 years ago. Then a trip up to Chacaltaya (formerly the highest commercial ski resort in the world at 5,300m before the glacier melted due to climate change) and a hike over to the base camp at Huayna Potosi.

We sleep at about 3,500 m in La Paz, but walk up to 3,700 or 3,800 m. (around 12,000 feet). While that is normal here, it is amazing when you consider how few places in Canada exist at that altitude. There are just a handful outside the St Elias Range in the Yukon. Basically, while we would include being at such altitude in our mountain resume, being in La Paz makes it seem like nothing to write home about.

We are feeling great being here. Like 3 years ago we are staying at Casa Hermanos Manchego, with the lovely Isabel our host and her staff ever caring for our well being. We have already been to our favourite restaurant down the street and enjoyed tasty Thai at Maphroa On. It´s lovely to reconnect with people and places we know a little already.
(Post by Inga)

Reb Book Entry: November 9, 2010

We are now set up in our second camp of our 12-day trek in the Cordillera Real [Bolivia]. We are a team of four: the guide, Andres; the cook, Felix; and two arrieros, Hugo and Narciso. And of course, our four-legged friends: three horses (with colourful tassles between their beautiful eyes) and two donkeys.

The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.

We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.

I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.

We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.

As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.

Rainy season in Bolivia destructive

Associated Press image

The news from La Paz at the end of February wasn't all good. This la nina rainy season has been creating challenges across large parts of Bolivia. Flooding and mud slides have destroyed houses, people have become homeless. Most recently the news from La Paz, the large city built at the edge of the Altiplano, Bolivia's impressive high sierra sitting at 4,000m altitude, and reaching down the mountain sides into a valley at 3,000m, has seen bucking roads, and mud slides destroying hundreds of houses.

There have been no death reported. People self-evacuated when the saturated hillside started to move and the roads started to buckle.

Our first glimpse of La Paz in November 2010. Every inch
of the hill sides have houses, often right to the edge of the
sharply dropping sides. 

Here are a couple of articles in English that give a sense of what the local people are dealing with.
http://www.trust.org/alertnet/news/massive-mudslides-in-la-paz-leave-older-people-homeless

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=134107477

Spending a month in Bolivia left us with a sense of a resilient people, helpful people despite the daily difficulties due to poverty. I imagine the community will help those affected and the public services seem to be responding quickly. Best wishes to Bolivians as you deal with this challenge and best wishes for finding new homes and basic necessities quickly again.

Enriqueta Ulloa - Bolivian superstar delivers awesome performance

Two posters in contrast. She's so
famous her image is all the
advertising needed.

I just posted this on my professional blog - about one of the most amazing performing arts experiences I've ever had. Check it out :)

Casa Hermanos Manchego -- our fine casita in La Paz

Matte de coca is as common
as Tetley, but a whole bunch
 better in taste and in
medicinal properties (gives you
energy; good for stomach
aches; etc.)

Good morning! Inga prepping
breakfast in our very own dinning
room. How regal.

Trying to find just "the right spot" to call home involves a whole bunch of online research and, in the end, a gut feeling. Our home away from home in La Paz is pure perfection -- it is a fine home (i.e. very unlike a hotel) with a great vibe, fine people, great location (Sopocachi neighbourhood) and interesting history.
 


This fine piece of stained glass is in the sitting room
at the front of the house. It is only one of the many
pieces of stained glass to adorn the house.

    




Inga in the front garden. A very
welcoming entrance.

View into the sitting room from the
dining room.

   

6,088 metres is really, really high!

This morning at 8:10 am we summitted Huayna Potosi. First time in both our lives that we have breathed the air above 6,000 ... and taken in the views too before heading back to High Camp for hot soup (thanks Felix!) and then hiked out to get a drive back to La Paz.

Our guide Pedro was great. Pictures and more from our 12-day trek in the Cordillera Real tomorrow ...

(6,088 m = 19,974 feet)

Shopping fun!

Shopping is not usually our thing. But Wednesday was a big gold medal shopping day, from shopping in the feria with Esther and Miguel, shopping in a couple of outdoor shops and souvenir shopping.

Among other things I got this newfangled bandana to replace the one I lost on the last day of our trek in Peru. Check it out. It´s versatile!

La Paz impressions

Thought this was an
interesting way to contrast.

This city is brimming with interesting architecture, contrasting worlds, and getting to grips with new ways of being. It´s also unexpectedly international in terms of culinary options and tourists. Feels modern in many ways, like 2.3 mb at this internet place! And compact: we can walk the depth of downtown in 45 minutes and enjoy the sights and sounds and busyness of it all along the way. (Well, we are well acclimatized.) There are basically two directions here: you walk uphill, or you walk downhill. Downhill always gets you to the ritzier part of town. (Credit: all pics by Jan)

Who´d have thought? La Quebecoise
in La Paz!

Random llama art on wall.

Huge variety in styles on
display along the main street,
which changes names like
10 times!

There´s a big campaign on
against discrimination. There´s
even a law against racism on
the books now. President
Morales is having an impact.

Street view with Illimani towering
 over the city with  its 6,439 m.

Friends in La Paz

Esther in heaven! A calle
dedicated to nothing but
wool, alpaca and other
knitting delights!

Yup. Heaven!

Miguel checking out the scene. By
 the end of the street he was ready
 for a cold one: Pico de Plata, Pico de
 Oro or Huari?

What a great few days we´ve been having in La Paz. Been spending time with Esther and Miguel, shopping, eating, exploring the city and discovering Esther´s roots. Also been enjoying meeting Humberto and Olga, her cousin and his wife. Lovely people. Just like the Bolivians we´ve been meeting in shops and in our casa.

Esther and Inga - this was a super
quiet moment on the street. The feria
really was hopping this Wednesday
morning!

Street market - everything is available here:
fruit, veggies, meat, fish, things we
don´t have names for ...

First impressions of La Paz

First view of La Paz from the
airport road. Looks and feels
cosmopolitan and vibrant, as it
spills down into the valley and up.

We arrived in La Paz this afternoon. Never had so much turbulence on an approach as we did coming in to the airport at 4,000 metres. Saw Lake Titicaca and Cordillera Real along the way. Cool!

We are staying at Casa Hermanos Manchego. Not sure how it happened, but this place is a gem. We have a full appartement, and there is only one other guest bedroom, which is not taken right now! Dining room, living room, kitchen, and a very large bedroom just for us :) And the neighbourhood is great. Within 5 blocks there are tons of interesting restaurants, stores, internet cafes, parks and cobbled roads.

Jan looking out from Casa
Hermanos Manchego.

First impression: we're loving it here!

Our laundry will be done for tomorrow - and believe me after 10 days' trekking, the only sort of clean clothes we have we are wearing. So yeah to laundry!

Inga in front of our casa.