We went over our last pass of this phenomenal trek shortly after leaving our camp at 4,500m. I am not sure what was going on with my belly but it felt as if I had five portions of breakfast. I had woken up around 6:30, no longer starving. Perhaps my body was a bit overworked trying to stay warm having to get up four times during the night to go to the bathroom. It sure is hard to drag myself out of my warm cocoon into the cold night. The bonus, however, is seeing the phenomenal night skies; brilliant black speckled with dazzling stars (I don't know constellations in my part of the hemisphere let alone those in South America -- suffice it to say that the stars are impressive) and a waning moon (which was still with us in a bright blue sky as we headed out of camp at 8:00).
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Red Book Entry: A Little Tune
Libre como el aire
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Red Book Entry: October 28, 2010
I have been recording the trek day by day as I find it overwhelming to try and capture all that I see, all that I experience and all the emotions that move through me.
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 25, 2010
We are at the end of day five of our amazing trek. We started earlier today, with breakfast at 7:00 (the delight this morning, along with the "usual" pot of coffee, was a hot cereal made with rice). I did not know that rice grew in Peru, as does just about everthing else.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
Red Book Entry: Mountain Menu
Desayuno
Almuerzo
- Flacky pastry stuffed with apples and cinnamon
- Fresh banana (one of three varieties grown here)
- Lactose-free yogurt drink
_______________
- Pancakes
- Coffee (Peruvian, of course)
- Toast with honey or jam
- Oatmeal
- Coffee
- Fresh mango and kiwi
- Yogurt drink and granola
- Coffee
Almuerzo
- Quinoa salad (red onion, nut of some sort, herbs, tangerines ...)
- Super delicious because it was eaten on a mountain
- Juice
- Make-your-own sandwich with hommus, cucumber and carrots
- Mate de coca
- Tangerine
- Make-your-own sandwich with cheese (cow, incredibly fresh),avocados!, tomatoes and boston lettuce
- Mate de coca
- Crackers with peanut butter (Humberto was not with us : (
- Boston lettuce, yellow potatoes, olives, sauce
- Mate de coca
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 21, 2010
Ready, set, trek! Some members of our adventure team picked us up at Albergue Churup at the bright and early hour of 6:15. Inga and I had packed everything the night before and had a shower (the last one for 10 days) so we were all set to go in the morning.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18 (again)
Laguna Churup. What can I say to truly reflect its magnificence? Cecilia gave us some beta on how to get to the trailhead so off we went going "... straight down the road. Just before it starts to curve left, turn right unto a herd path. You will see a partially built building. Turn just past the trees."
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18, 2010
Today marks the end of our first week in S.A. And, as is the case when I travel, time expands. I can't quite wrap my mind around all of the experiences I have had.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 14, 2010
We took a cab from Albergue Churup to El Pinar to start our first hike. El Pinar is a new "modern" gated community that was constructed about seven years ago to house the people who work for one of the mines.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
Monday, November 14, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 13, 2010
I still can't believe that I am in Peru, being in another time and space and living very differently from my regular world.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine
We didn't encounter this in Peru, likely because we didn't spend any significant city time and the mountains were dominated by country food. Both in Viña del Mar in Chile and in Buenos Aires we enjoyed this awesome fusion. There are plenty of connections between Asian and Latin American countries. For instance a Peruvian-Japanese chef evolved ceviche, a South American raw fish dish (fish that is cooked in a citric acid marinade rather than by heat) to its modern form. Certainly, fish and seafood are important in Japanese and many South American dishes.
In Viña del Mar we came across Six bar near the beach and had an unexpectedly great meal, cocktails, coffee and great service all included.
When we were in Buenos Aires - capital of a country known for its notoriously bland food and, well, steaks - we looked for Peruvian-Japanese fusion and had several options to pick from in the trendy Palermo neighbourhood. We walked many blocks only to settle on the first place we had seen - of course - aptly called Ceviche.
In Viña del Mar we came across Six bar near the beach and had an unexpectedly great meal, cocktails, coffee and great service all included.
 |
| Inga's starter roll. This was so yummy! |
 |
| Jan's veggie starter - modified to her specifications. |
 |
| Inga's main. So good. |
 |
| Jan's giant salad main. |
When we were in Buenos Aires - capital of a country known for its notoriously bland food and, well, steaks - we looked for Peruvian-Japanese fusion and had several options to pick from in the trendy Palermo neighbourhood. We walked many blocks only to settle on the first place we had seen - of course - aptly called Ceviche.
 |
| Causa peruana sampler - the base is potato, toppings included squid, fish with avocado |
 |
| Jan's custom order of a great veggie salad with eggplant |
 |
| We both ordered a variety of rolls as our mains. Some of mine were warm, and all very delicious! |
Saturday, December 4, 2010
Quechua people and their Inka
One thing we learned in Cuzco is that "Inka" is the title of a ruler; like Queen, Kaiser, Ceasar or Emporer. The people this Inka ruled were Quechua. Still to this day, many Quechua-speakers live in Peru, including in the more northern parts like around Huaraz.
It´s amazing that with all the knowledge these people had, they did not develop a written language. Today, it is possible to learn Quechua in university - so you don´t have to be a native speaker learning it all at home from parents and grandparents. Its written language is based on Spanish, with a few more accents to denote the different sounds the language has.
There were 14 Inkas (if I recall correctly). The Spanish could take over the empire so easily in part because it was in internal chaos: yes, the usual power struggles between the Inka´s off-spring.
Our team in Huaraz was Quechua. And the guides we had around Cusco were mesquites (mix of Spanish and indigenous).
 | |
| Cusco - temple of the sun/convent in dramatic light. |
 |
| Inga at one of the Inka sites near Cusco. |
It´s amazing that with all the knowledge these people had, they did not develop a written language. Today, it is possible to learn Quechua in university - so you don´t have to be a native speaker learning it all at home from parents and grandparents. Its written language is based on Spanish, with a few more accents to denote the different sounds the language has.
 |
| Rock on rock - always in synch with what was there |
 |
| Valle Sagrado. One of strategic Inka cities with 65,000 ha of terrasses. |
 |
| Same site, new view. |
 |
| Inga at Ollantaytambo. |
 |
| Looking pleased. The building mid-mountain is a grainery |
 |
| View over the Cordillera from Chincero |
Our team in Huaraz was Quechua. And the guides we had around Cusco were mesquites (mix of Spanish and indigenous).
 |
| :) |
Peru Rail makes for a fun excursion
 |
| Valle Sagrado outside of Cusco. |
 |
| Inga enjoying the ride to Aguas Calientes |
 |
| KM 82. The beginning of the Inka Trail. |
 |
| The Expedition train. |
 |
| The wine we bought ... by the bottle. |
 |
| ... and drank during the 4-hour trip. |
 |
| A traditional performance, surely by one of the attendants... |
 |
| And these 2 provided the fashion show! |
 |
| Quite the jokster outfit! |
Friday, December 3, 2010
Attending to beauty needs
 |
| Using a 5-hour layover, Inga gets a manicure at Lima airport |
My hands look better now than they ever do at home. I think I like this manicure thing - except I paid like $10 for them here ... Jan says they are a little pricier back home :(
Machu Picchu photos
This post includes pics by both Jan and Inga. Machu Picchu and other sites in the Valle Sagrado and around Cusco, the Inka empire capital, were well worth the visit.
Rant alert: But after 4 days, I was done with the constant hussle that restaurants, massage parlours, tour operators, craft market vendors at ever single historic site subject tourists to. I mean I really am not going to buy all this stuff - at every single stop - or eat every 5 minutes! Yikes.
Rant over.
Back to amazing experiences and views of an empire that, however shortlived it was, left some indelible evidence of its greatness.
The 2-hour tour we took (in Spanish :) was excellent. The guide kept it fresh and he was still excited about his subject which made it a great experience.
These people used mountains and temples as sun clocks, to understand their world and dry and wet season. They were amazing farmers, creating terrasses with micro-climates to genetically engineer some important crops at higher altitudes.
 | |
|
 |
| The famous view later in the day. |
 | ||
| Note angle of wall. That´s earthquake-proof! |
 |
| Yeah |
Back to amazing experiences and views of an empire that, however shortlived it was, left some indelible evidence of its greatness.
The 2-hour tour we took (in Spanish :) was excellent. The guide kept it fresh and he was still excited about his subject which made it a great experience.
 |
| Ruins: 3 windows - Pachamama (Mother Earth). Fog. Inga. Nice. |
These people used mountains and temples as sun clocks, to understand their world and dry and wet season. They were amazing farmers, creating terrasses with micro-climates to genetically engineer some important crops at higher altitudes.
 |
| Lovely how the clouds wafted up and over. |
 |
| Terrasses and a quarry overlook the mountains and valley. |
 |
| Having fun in the ruins. |
 |
| Temple of the Sun. Just not on this day. |
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Machu Picchu - veni, vidi, vici
Oh, right, that´s Ceasar of Rome!
Anyhow, the Inkan architecture, astronomy, engineering, culture and religion seems to have been grand, indeed. Pachamama (mother earth) ruled. And even if the empire only lasted a short while, our guide did say that some people think that they continue to live in the unexplored jungle of Peru stil. Awaiting the return of the last Inka.
Our guide was very good. His telling of the well-rehearsed 2-hour long story of Machu Picchu felt as fresh as ever. The fog did lift a little by mid-day and we did get some nice pics along with the knowledge :) We´ll add some when we get back to Cusco later on - this connection is too slow :(
Anyhow, the Inkan architecture, astronomy, engineering, culture and religion seems to have been grand, indeed. Pachamama (mother earth) ruled. And even if the empire only lasted a short while, our guide did say that some people think that they continue to live in the unexplored jungle of Peru stil. Awaiting the return of the last Inka.
Our guide was very good. His telling of the well-rehearsed 2-hour long story of Machu Picchu felt as fresh as ever. The fog did lift a little by mid-day and we did get some nice pics along with the knowledge :) We´ll add some when we get back to Cusco later on - this connection is too slow :(
Monday, November 29, 2010
The place in between ...
... is called Aguas Calientes.
Yes, we are in that tiny tourist haven where the train from Cuzco to Machu Picchu ends. Haven because it has all a typical tourist could possibly want - really: tons of local, artisan stuff to buy, plenty of hotels and hostels in all price ranges, many restaurants and bars all with people outside welcoming you vigorously to have a drink or reciting the menu highlights (guinea pig anyone?), oh and if you want a massage - there are 6 different ones on offer here, too.
All that to say, it´s not our usual sort of destination on this journey, but it suits our purpose: to visit Machu Picchu and not be rushed into the 5-hour window the day trip allows. As well, there are the thermal hotsprings which lend Aguas Calientes its name. As Jan can attest to, rightfully so.
We´ll meet our guide, Washington, tonight for a briefing about tomorrow´s visit. I am afraid it´ll be another very early morning. But if it is like all the other early mornings, it´ll be worth the wake-up call.
We´ve decided to go directly to Patagonia from this part of our journey. The careful reader will note that we have decided to leave Arequipa/Colca Canyon and the Chilean Atacama desert to our next south american adventure. 3 months is turning out to be kind of short ...
Yes, we are in that tiny tourist haven where the train from Cuzco to Machu Picchu ends. Haven because it has all a typical tourist could possibly want - really: tons of local, artisan stuff to buy, plenty of hotels and hostels in all price ranges, many restaurants and bars all with people outside welcoming you vigorously to have a drink or reciting the menu highlights (guinea pig anyone?), oh and if you want a massage - there are 6 different ones on offer here, too.
All that to say, it´s not our usual sort of destination on this journey, but it suits our purpose: to visit Machu Picchu and not be rushed into the 5-hour window the day trip allows. As well, there are the thermal hotsprings which lend Aguas Calientes its name. As Jan can attest to, rightfully so.
We´ll meet our guide, Washington, tonight for a briefing about tomorrow´s visit. I am afraid it´ll be another very early morning. But if it is like all the other early mornings, it´ll be worth the wake-up call.
We´ve decided to go directly to Patagonia from this part of our journey. The careful reader will note that we have decided to leave Arequipa/Colca Canyon and the Chilean Atacama desert to our next south american adventure. 3 months is turning out to be kind of short ...
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Things we don´t blog about
(Click on images to enlarge)
It´s true. We are having awesome experiences, getting to know out there places beyond civilization and meeting interesting people along the way, too.
But really, do we tell all? No! Of course not!
So for the fun of it here´s a list of things we don´t blog about:
 |
| Important instructions - not to be taken lightly. |
But really, do we tell all? No! Of course not!
So for the fun of it here´s a list of things we don´t blog about:
- The specifics of various bathrooms we encounter
- The physical requirements of bathroom use (depending on number 1 above).
- How long it takes to break the habit of flushing toilet paper, even though the systems here can´t handle it.
- And if you throw it in, under what circumstances do you try to remedy the error.
- Asking your hiking guide to buy feminine hygiene products.
- The awkwardness of getting the conjugation of Spanish verbs in both tense and person wrong.
- Trying to eat the entire Pique de lo Macho plate even though it would feed a family of 4 - or 6! - and what happens afterwards.
- Generally, the bodily functions that follow food one is not used to eating.
- Undertaking secret calculations of how much pasta it takes to become seriously allergic to it.
- The discovery of the intrinsic connection between panty-liners and panties.
 |
| Bolivian national dish. Pique do lo macho is basically protein. Tons of protein and a little bit of potato starch. |
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Living High
 |
| Our first pass over 5,000 m (ever!) on Day 3 of our Cordillera Real trek. |
So here are a few tips for aspiring altitude travellers, gleaned from what has worked for us (of course, everyone reacts a little differently to high altitudes, so take this as food for thought):
- Take your time to acclimatize properly. We took 7 days with acclimatization hikes (ie hike high, sleep at 3,000 m), lots longer than any of the commercial trips offered in the Cordillera Blanca. They are set up to fit the typical 2 week vacation after all.
- Take a tylanol if you get a headache. Diamox is a favourite drug to take to help people with altitude issues, but it is also a diuretic and as such counter-indicated for altitude issues. If you can take a few days to get used to being high then a tylanol is probably a fine option.
- Drink water. It is the best medicine against AMS symptoms. Naturally, do not over-hydrate. And until you acclimatize try to keep away from alcohol ... no fun, I know.
- Take responsibility for your health and don´t blame your tour operators or guides if you get AMS symptoms. Just because they offer a particular itinerary doesn´t mean you need to follow it. You kow yourself and you get to make sure you have a great time!
 |
| Huayna Potosi in the late afternoon light of day 8. The next day we walked to Base camp around the mountain. |
- 6. And take some time to understand the climate specific to the mountains you want to visit. We noticed that 4,400 m on Aconcagua is a totally different experience than 4,400 m in the Cordillera Blanca: Aconcagua is an arid desert while in Peru the tropical climate is far moister and animals graze up to 4,800 m! Guess which is easier on the human, then?!
 |
| This is the final path to the top of Huayna Potosi. See the steps at the edge of the snow and rocks? Just above that was the summit. (Pedro´s head is here just for scale.) |
So when you plan your trip, find out how high you will sleep, how high you will hike and how much elevation change you will cover. Then you can sort out the best plan for you.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Los Cedros stats
I know, I know: statistics are only so interesting.
So let´s start with the highest mountains in Canada. Yes, there are very tall mountains, but hardly anyone will ever see them, because they are in the Saint Elias Range in the Yukon. The highest is Mt Logan at 5,956 m. Impressive. This range has 5 mountains over 5,000 m and all but one of Canada´s over 4,000 m high mountains are in this range; the exception is Mount Waddington in BC which comes in at 4,019 m.
So, what´s the highest mountain some Canadians might actually travel to, let´s say in the Canadian Rockies? If you guessed Mount Robson you win! It´s 3,959 m.
Similarly, the highest mountain in the Alps that many might see from Chamonix is Mont Blanc which comes in at 4,808 m.
Now that we have some context established, here are our stats for the Los Cedros Trek. In brackets is the day´s ascent and descent rounded - you´ll note a lot of up and down. Anyone looking to do this trek or similar ones in the Cordillera Blanca might find some inspiration here.
Camp 1 Huishcash - 4,320 m (asc 1,200 m des 75 m)
Camp 2 Osoruri - 4,600 m (asc 700 m des 500 m)
Camp 3 Jancarurish - 4,250 m (asc 600 m des 900 m)
Day 4 - "rest" day at Jancarurish (asc/des 550 m)
Camp 4 Huillca - 4,100 m (asc 1,000 m des 1,200 m)
Camp 5 Janca Pampa - 3,600 m (asc 800 m des 1,300 m)
Camp 6 Huecrococha - 4,050 m (asc 1,100 m des 650 m)
Camp 7 below Taulliraju glacier toward Punta Union pass 4,500 m (asc 1,000m des 550 m)
Camp 8 30 min above of Llamacoral - 3,950 m (asc 600 m des 1,100 m)
Hike out (asc 50 m des 950 m)
The passes are higher than our camps. The highest was the very first one at 4,850 m. That was followed the next day by a pass at 4,750 m. After our rest day, we tackled two passes: the next big one 4,830 m followed by a much lower one at 4,460 m. Rounding the estern end of the Cordillera we passed over 4,600 m and 4,400 m passes. The last pass (Punta Union) got us back up to 4,750 m before heading downhill over 2 days and 1,800 m in elevation.
See, stats aren´t so bad :)
So let´s start with the highest mountains in Canada. Yes, there are very tall mountains, but hardly anyone will ever see them, because they are in the Saint Elias Range in the Yukon. The highest is Mt Logan at 5,956 m. Impressive. This range has 5 mountains over 5,000 m and all but one of Canada´s over 4,000 m high mountains are in this range; the exception is Mount Waddington in BC which comes in at 4,019 m.
So, what´s the highest mountain some Canadians might actually travel to, let´s say in the Canadian Rockies? If you guessed Mount Robson you win! It´s 3,959 m.
Similarly, the highest mountain in the Alps that many might see from Chamonix is Mont Blanc which comes in at 4,808 m.
Now that we have some context established, here are our stats for the Los Cedros Trek. In brackets is the day´s ascent and descent rounded - you´ll note a lot of up and down. Anyone looking to do this trek or similar ones in the Cordillera Blanca might find some inspiration here.
Camp 1 Huishcash - 4,320 m (asc 1,200 m des 75 m)
Camp 2 Osoruri - 4,600 m (asc 700 m des 500 m)
Camp 3 Jancarurish - 4,250 m (asc 600 m des 900 m)
Day 4 - "rest" day at Jancarurish (asc/des 550 m)
Camp 4 Huillca - 4,100 m (asc 1,000 m des 1,200 m)
Camp 5 Janca Pampa - 3,600 m (asc 800 m des 1,300 m)
Camp 6 Huecrococha - 4,050 m (asc 1,100 m des 650 m)
Camp 7 below Taulliraju glacier toward Punta Union pass 4,500 m (asc 1,000m des 550 m)
Camp 8 30 min above of Llamacoral - 3,950 m (asc 600 m des 1,100 m)
Hike out (asc 50 m des 950 m)
The passes are higher than our camps. The highest was the very first one at 4,850 m. That was followed the next day by a pass at 4,750 m. After our rest day, we tackled two passes: the next big one 4,830 m followed by a much lower one at 4,460 m. Rounding the estern end of the Cordillera we passed over 4,600 m and 4,400 m passes. The last pass (Punta Union) got us back up to 4,750 m before heading downhill over 2 days and 1,800 m in elevation.
See, stats aren´t so bad :)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)