If one ever needed to remember just why it is such an amazing thing to be alive in this world, I invite them to come to Bolivia and take in the Andes, the people and the culture.
It is the evening of our fourth day and the light is spectacular -- that light that just envelops your soul. Llama are grazing across the laguna and a flock of sheep just ran by in a tidy bunch. The animals belong to the community; a random (or maybe not so random) scattering of three or four houses. Because nothing grows at this altitude, aside from Andean grasses, plants and some flowers, the community has a garden at around 4,100 to grow their vegetables.
Our two arriero friends, Hugo and Narcisio, left this evening to head home, roughly a four hour ride. (Two more lovely people I have had the opportunity to meet.) They both came in the cook tent (we were having tea) to say goodbye and we exchanged handshakes and hugs. Warm people.
Victoria, Felix's wife, joined us this evening and will be hanging out for the next three days. Victoria was traditionally dressed in her full skirt and layering of tops and a wrap. Women in the country dress traditionally; they do not wear pants. We all ate supper together (yummy, as usual) and there was much conversation in Aymara as well as in Spanish. Victoria was very quiet but did have a good laugh at the end when we told her the two Aymara words we knew: "hello" and "crucillo" which together, give you "Hello monkey."
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Reb Book Entry: November 9, 2010
We are now set up in our second camp of our 12-day trek in the Cordillera Real [Bolivia]. We are a team of four: the guide, Andres; the cook, Felix; and two arrieros, Hugo and Narciso. And of course, our four-legged friends: three horses (with colourful tassles between their beautiful eyes) and two donkeys.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 29, 2010
We went over our last pass of this phenomenal trek shortly after leaving our camp at 4,500m. I am not sure what was going on with my belly but it felt as if I had five portions of breakfast. I had woken up around 6:30, no longer starving. Perhaps my body was a bit overworked trying to stay warm having to get up four times during the night to go to the bathroom. It sure is hard to drag myself out of my warm cocoon into the cold night. The bonus, however, is seeing the phenomenal night skies; brilliant black speckled with dazzling stars (I don't know constellations in my part of the hemisphere let alone those in South America -- suffice it to say that the stars are impressive) and a waning moon (which was still with us in a bright blue sky as we headed out of camp at 8:00).
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Red Book Entry: A Little Tune
Libre como el aire
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Red Book Entry: October 28, 2010
I have been recording the trek day by day as I find it overwhelming to try and capture all that I see, all that I experience and all the emotions that move through me.
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 25, 2010
We are at the end of day five of our amazing trek. We started earlier today, with breakfast at 7:00 (the delight this morning, along with the "usual" pot of coffee, was a hot cereal made with rice). I did not know that rice grew in Peru, as does just about everthing else.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
Red Book Entry: Mountain Menu
Desayuno
Almuerzo
- Flacky pastry stuffed with apples and cinnamon
- Fresh banana (one of three varieties grown here)
- Lactose-free yogurt drink
_______________
- Pancakes
- Coffee (Peruvian, of course)
- Toast with honey or jam
- Oatmeal
- Coffee
- Fresh mango and kiwi
- Yogurt drink and granola
- Coffee
Almuerzo
- Quinoa salad (red onion, nut of some sort, herbs, tangerines ...)
- Super delicious because it was eaten on a mountain
- Juice
- Make-your-own sandwich with hommus, cucumber and carrots
- Mate de coca
- Tangerine
- Make-your-own sandwich with cheese (cow, incredibly fresh),avocados!, tomatoes and boston lettuce
- Mate de coca
- Crackers with peanut butter (Humberto was not with us : (
- Boston lettuce, yellow potatoes, olives, sauce
- Mate de coca
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 21, 2010
Ready, set, trek! Some members of our adventure team picked us up at Albergue Churup at the bright and early hour of 6:15. Inga and I had packed everything the night before and had a shower (the last one for 10 days) so we were all set to go in the morning.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
The van was filled with everything the six of us would need for the next 10 days. Our packs, not having been this light for quite some time, were added to the food, the "bathroom" tent; the cooking tent; the eating tent; our guide Eli's tent, and the combination tent for Humberto, the cook, two arrieros and supplies. After the paperwork was complete, we dropped off Ted, the Skyline rep, and headed to the mountains.
Our adventure team of Eli, our kind and very knowledgeable guide and leader; Humberto, cook extraordinaire (vegetarian cooking was not a challenge for him); the super sweet arrieros and a full complement of four legged friends: five mules, three donkeys and two horses.
The three-hour van ride to the trailhead was an adventure in itself. Vehicles casually drift from right to left and left to right to avoid the many potholes. We stopped along the way to have breakfast on the side of the road, and what a satisfying breakfast it was! A flacky pastry filled with apple and cinamon (and not too sweet at all), a lactose-free yogurt drink and a banana grown right here in Peru. A very fine start to Humberto's delights.
And then there was the drive up the mountain; the dirt road was very (very) narrow and had rocks and bumps to add to the thrill. Up and up we went past fertile fields of corn, potatoes, alfalfa (the food of choice for guinea pigs) and other vegetables that I did not recognize. What hard working people they are. Fields are tilled by bulls and harvest is done by hand.
We started the hike while the arrieros, with some help from Huberto, packed up the gear and the donkeys and one of the horses. We walked slowly in the splendid sunshine and my mind was blown. I can't believe where I am and all of the splendour I have seen. And this is only the beginning of the trek!
I am enveloped by the mountains.
A year ago today ...
We reached the summit of 6,088 m (19,975 feet) high Huayna Potosi in the Cordillera Real in Bolivia. Re-reading our post from that awesome adventure today.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18 (again)
Laguna Churup. What can I say to truly reflect its magnificence? Cecilia gave us some beta on how to get to the trailhead so off we went going "... straight down the road. Just before it starts to curve left, turn right unto a herd path. You will see a partially built building. Turn just past the trees."
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
We were met at the trailhead by two park officials. Once our park passes were verified (we had purchased them at the trailhead to Laguna Llaca) and the requisite paperwork filled out (I wonder what they do with the profession information?), we started our hike up to 4,400m in full sunshine.
On the trailhead we met ... no one. So we found ourselves perfectly on our own in this expansive landscape. We walked at a pace that allowed us to be steady and have a certain rhythm. We had frequent stops to catch our breath and get oxygen back into our legs.
After a scramble up a rockface that had been equiped with cables, we headed up a waterfall which, we would soon find out, was not the way to go; it was much easier to stay right and hike up the slabs. Great fun, though.
I would have hiked more than twice the distance to set my eyes on the patterns of colours of the laguna. Cerro Churup with its glaciers (although you can tell that they are not as big as they once were) was poised as a stunning backdrop.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 18, 2010
Today marks the end of our first week in S.A. And, as is the case when I travel, time expands. I can't quite wrap my mind around all of the experiences I have had.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
I am cozy in the tent with Inga, all my posessions (although I did leave a few items in Huaraz) and a warm bottle of mate de coca at the bottom of my sleeping bag (a trick I learned from Poppy, our guide on Aconcagua in 2007). Tonight is the third night camping at the Way Inn, a perfect lodge roughly a three-hour walk from Huaraz. We took a taxi to get here but plan on walking back to town with Cecilia, an interesting woman who works at the lodge occasionally.
Part of the reason why we came here was to acclimatize and to camp in Peru for the first time. As well, there is some excellent hiking here. Yesterday we simply went for a three-hour walk along the aquaduct and spent the whole time uttering superlative after superlative.We had the company of the three dog pals who live at the inn. They made the walk all the more enjoyable.
There is a reason we did not go for a big hike; I apparently picked-up a gastro problem along the way. I had major belly aches for three days and diarrhea a plenty. The day we arrived at the inn I did nothing but sleep (and go to the bathroom, of course). As it turned out, that was a fine thing to do because we had a major thunderstorm without any lightning. Weather in the mountains is changeable, to say the least.
Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 14, 2010
We took a cab from Albergue Churup to El Pinar to start our first hike. El Pinar is a new "modern" gated community that was constructed about seven years ago to house the people who work for one of the mines.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
The trek led us through the countryside and pueblitos. What a different world from the one I inhabit. Families own small parcels of land on which they grow food for their own consumption. We met traditionally dressed women herding their sheep or cows or oxen or pigs down the road, coming from or going to the fields to graze. Their houses, mostly made of adobe, are simple and many of them are painted with polical campaign messages (they apparently get paid to have these messages on their houses).
In the fields, or on a small patch of land in front of or beside the houses, animals are tethered rather than fenced in. The chickens run free (what we call "free range" chickens and pay more for) and dogs are everywhere.
After three hours of walking uphill, we reached Wilkawain, an archeological site. There were two buildings, one a three-story house that we were able to enter. The stone building is still standing solidly, quite a testament to the building science of the people.
While I was taking in the view and wrapping my mind around just where I was, a young man came over to say hello. (I am so glad that I know enough Spanish to have a conversation with Peruvians.) We spoke easily and freely and were soon joined by Inga. We continued to connect for a good 30-45 minutes before we carried on with our visit.
To get back to Huaraz, we took a collectivo, a van of sorts that picks people up who flag it along the way. Inga and I ended up sitting in the front seat which, as it turns out, were the best seats in the house. More and more people pilled into the van for the roughest (and quite exciting!) ride I have had. All this fun for 2 soles.
Monday, November 14, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 13, 2010
I still can't believe that I am in Peru, being in another time and space and living very differently from my regular world.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Breakfast at Albergue Churup [in Huaraz] is totally amazing, from the clean and bright room, to the 180 degree view of the mountains, to the lovely people, to an amazing fruit salad. Pineapple is in abundance and tastier than any pineapple I have ever had. The albergue is busy but not full; just enough people to add to the positive vibe. This breakfast room can be used until 23h, making it a perfect spot to read and write and contemplate being.
I had a wonderful nap this afternoon (I am sleeping and sleeping and sleeping) after exploring Huaraz. Dogs are a plenty; street vendors sell food from their carts and women move effortlessly despite carrying a child, or wood, or long grasses (not sure what they use them for) [found out later that the grasses are alfalfa that they feed their guinea pigs that they raise as food] They use colourful pieces of cloth drapped over their shoulders and carried on their backs as snugglies for their infants and carry whatever needs to be carried. One thing that fulfills various needs.
I have not noticed many flowers growing in front of houses. What I have seen, however, makes up for the volume -- beautiful white calla lilies grow in abundance. They are not indigenous to Canada and are quite expensive to buy so it's delightful to see so many, including a huge bouquet in the sitting area just outside our room. Splendid.
Sunday, November 13, 2011
Cena a la chilena :)
First Walleye Ceviche. The marinade was made with lime, red wine vinegar, cilantro, onions, red peppers, hot chili peppers, sea salt.
The vegetarian version used the identical marinade on fresh morzarella. (The fish after nearly an hour of "cooking" was perfect. The cheese, well, it works if you are vegetarian.)
The main course was this awesome Pebre and Tofu dish with stuffed bell peppers served on hydroponic boston lettuce. Simmered for about 30 minutes and served with Pebre (cold).
The wine selection included whites from New Zealand (Oyster and Monkey Bay) and this really lovely, smooth Apothic Red from California that Sylvie brought.
Lemon meringue pie - by our pal Jan - topped it all off just so.
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Chilean dinner
Putting into practice once again what we learned with chef Gonzalo Lara at Cafe Vinilo in Valparaiso, Chile. They are on Facebook here.
We've prepared Ceviche a la Chilena (using Walleye and fresh Mozarella for the vegetarian version) for the starter. Then we made Pebre - an awesome, ubiquitous Chilean salsa - that we are using to marinate the main comprised of slow fried tofu strips and baked bell peppers stuffed with quinoa, mushroom and zucchini.
Desert will be arriving with one of our guest. Pictures will be posted once everything is plated :)
We've prepared Ceviche a la Chilena (using Walleye and fresh Mozarella for the vegetarian version) for the starter. Then we made Pebre - an awesome, ubiquitous Chilean salsa - that we are using to marinate the main comprised of slow fried tofu strips and baked bell peppers stuffed with quinoa, mushroom and zucchini.
Desert will be arriving with one of our guest. Pictures will be posted once everything is plated :)
Friday, November 11, 2011
Patagonia Trip Planning
We've spent about 5 weeks in Patagonia so far: first time in 2007 when we went to the small town of El Bolson, Argentina after our trek to Basecamp at Aconcagua and then all of December 2010 as part of our 3 months Andean trip spanning Peru, Bolivia and Chile.
I am scheming already: can we live there - trekking and climbing mountains - for 3 months again? More boldly, how can travelling become what I do?
Meanwhile I am putting pre-requisites in place:
I'm continuing my Spanish studies begun in early 2010 at UNAM. And we are looking into training re: independent mountaineering skills. We also want to spend some time in the Adirondaks for winter ascents of some of the High Peaks. And we are checking into ski trips to the mountains of Colorado.
More than dreams.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
180 South = Trip planning!
We just watched this awesome movie on DVD. There are a few stars in it but none greater than Patagonia itself. I love Patagonia.
I learned that there's a new park about to open to the public: Conservacion Patagonica. Who's behind this new park? A couple of Americans; one who once was a blacksmith, climber and surfer and started first Black Diamond and then, well, Patagonia, and the other the chap who started The North Face and later ESPRIT.
The footage in the movie is everything I have ever seen and loved about being in Patagonia. And, it conspires with some trip planning: we have begun to think about climbing Aconcagua and when you go that far south it's only natural to want to spend a little more time ... and it is an objective that will take some training to do well.
Meanwhile, check out this movie to see for yourself what it is all about.
I learned that there's a new park about to open to the public: Conservacion Patagonica. Who's behind this new park? A couple of Americans; one who once was a blacksmith, climber and surfer and started first Black Diamond and then, well, Patagonia, and the other the chap who started The North Face and later ESPRIT.
The footage in the movie is everything I have ever seen and loved about being in Patagonia. And, it conspires with some trip planning: we have begun to think about climbing Aconcagua and when you go that far south it's only natural to want to spend a little more time ... and it is an objective that will take some training to do well.
Meanwhile, check out this movie to see for yourself what it is all about.
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