 |
| This is part of the area in Torres del Paine that was burnt in 2005 by a Czech tourist, Jiri Smitak. 14,000 hectares burnt (about 7% of the park) in the Laguna Azul, Cebolla and Paine Waterfall areas. The cause was Jiri camping wild, ie in an area not designated for camping, in grassland! He improperly handling his gas cooking stove. He got the maximum $200 fine. The Czech Government stepped in (smartly) to pay for the restoration and replanting activities. The damage is obvious today when you head through the area. |
Saturday, December 31, 2011
Torres del Paine: 2005 fire damage seen in 2010.
Friday, December 30, 2011
Fire closes Torres del Paine National Park
Looks like a careless tourist has set off a massive fire on December 27 in Torres del Paine National Park in Southern Patagonia. By this morning (Dec 30) a whopping 5,700 hectares were burnt already, according to Bloomberg, and counting (8,500 hectares this afternoon...). Winds of 90+ km/h are fanning the rapidly growing fire.
This traveller's Youtube video taken from a bus shows the fire's extent vividly.
The fire is uncontrollable and the Park has been closed completely now; tourists and trekkers have been evacuated.
TdP is known for its strong winds. Sparks fly far and wide (even a badly handled camping stove can set off a major blaze as happened in 2005) and with the very dry conditions this year, fire hazards were very high. This fire started just off the trail, at Lake Grey. Park Rangers believe it might have been a camp fire that had not been extinguished properly. Hope they find whoever is responsible and hold them to account.
For local coverage, there are local news links here and here (both are Lonely Planet Forum links to Chilean news media)
This is one area in the world where human-made forest fires are not needed to clear the underbrush. I hope the winds let up so that this fire can be extinguished and the ground erosion that follows can be stopped before it takes hold.
This traveller's Youtube video taken from a bus shows the fire's extent vividly.
The fire is uncontrollable and the Park has been closed completely now; tourists and trekkers have been evacuated.
TdP is known for its strong winds. Sparks fly far and wide (even a badly handled camping stove can set off a major blaze as happened in 2005) and with the very dry conditions this year, fire hazards were very high. This fire started just off the trail, at Lake Grey. Park Rangers believe it might have been a camp fire that had not been extinguished properly. Hope they find whoever is responsible and hold them to account.
For local coverage, there are local news links here and here (both are Lonely Planet Forum links to Chilean news media)
This is one area in the world where human-made forest fires are not needed to clear the underbrush. I hope the winds let up so that this fire can be extinguished and the ground erosion that follows can be stopped before it takes hold.
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| We took this photo at Grande Paine last year - part of the W Circuit - which has been affected by the fire. Note, the wind... |
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| This is on the way from Grey Camp to Grande Paine/Pehoe. Sounds like all this and much more has been burnt. |
Tuesday, December 6, 2011
Red Book Entry: November 14, 2010
The biggest and most important journal entry for me today is to say that I am feeling sooo much better than I did yesterday. A couple of things conspired to make day six of our trek a bit of a challenging one. First of all, the "allergy" I thought I had turned out to be a full blown cold complete with energy sucking properties. The other factor was the lack of energy from simply not eating what my body needed in order to hike up Pico Austria at 5,350m. It was difficult and took all of the mental might I had. Heading up to 5,350m is not what you want to be doing when you bonk.
The good news to the story is that I did make it to the summit, moving very, very slowly, one step at a time (with each one feeling as if it was the last one I could take). I so wanted to close my eyes and rest. We ate lunch at the summit; all I could manage was the cheese followed by chocolate for a quick hit of energy. I closed my eyes and dozed for a bit and was happy that I actually was able to recover enough to complete the trek to our next camp.
As with all the other camps, the location was awesome; it was by a laguna, with a river and had a view of a gorgeous glacier. It was only around 1:30 when we arrived and the sun was still warming. I layed outside to rest for a bit before heading into the tent for a full-on rest. Supper was at 6:30 and I had to drag myself of the tent to head to the cook tent for some sustenance. I managed to make it through supper but could not stay for mate. Off I went with my water bottle filled with hot camomile tea. I did not end up taking even one sip because I simply passed out. I did not wake up to go to the bathroom which, given my record, is saying a lot. When I did finally wake up in the morning I was super hot because the sun was beating down on the tent.
Another blue sky day!
The pattern so far has been for full blue sky in the morning, followed by clouds moving in, followed (or not) by hail or rain. You certainly have to be ready for every type of weather while trekking here. I find myself one minute hauling clothes off and the next, putting it all back on. Certainly when we reach the passes, which range from 4,800m to 5,100m, there is usually more wind and it's definitely cooler.
Each day has really been a different experience, depending in part on the character of each valley. We have hiked through deserts; rocky terrain; bogey areas and have hiked down steep pitches of scree. (I am not exaggerating when I say that the pitch has been as much as 40 degrees). There have been many lagunas, all offering up various greens, blues and opals. There have also been unending herds of llamas (lovely creatures) and some herds of alpaca (the pure white ones apparently fetch more money than the ones of other colours; not sure how many colours they "come in" but I have seen gorgeous brown ones as well). They have quite a unique look with their heads seeming large because only their bodies are sheared.
The good news to the story is that I did make it to the summit, moving very, very slowly, one step at a time (with each one feeling as if it was the last one I could take). I so wanted to close my eyes and rest. We ate lunch at the summit; all I could manage was the cheese followed by chocolate for a quick hit of energy. I closed my eyes and dozed for a bit and was happy that I actually was able to recover enough to complete the trek to our next camp.
As with all the other camps, the location was awesome; it was by a laguna, with a river and had a view of a gorgeous glacier. It was only around 1:30 when we arrived and the sun was still warming. I layed outside to rest for a bit before heading into the tent for a full-on rest. Supper was at 6:30 and I had to drag myself of the tent to head to the cook tent for some sustenance. I managed to make it through supper but could not stay for mate. Off I went with my water bottle filled with hot camomile tea. I did not end up taking even one sip because I simply passed out. I did not wake up to go to the bathroom which, given my record, is saying a lot. When I did finally wake up in the morning I was super hot because the sun was beating down on the tent.
Another blue sky day!
The pattern so far has been for full blue sky in the morning, followed by clouds moving in, followed (or not) by hail or rain. You certainly have to be ready for every type of weather while trekking here. I find myself one minute hauling clothes off and the next, putting it all back on. Certainly when we reach the passes, which range from 4,800m to 5,100m, there is usually more wind and it's definitely cooler.
Each day has really been a different experience, depending in part on the character of each valley. We have hiked through deserts; rocky terrain; bogey areas and have hiked down steep pitches of scree. (I am not exaggerating when I say that the pitch has been as much as 40 degrees). There have been many lagunas, all offering up various greens, blues and opals. There have also been unending herds of llamas (lovely creatures) and some herds of alpaca (the pure white ones apparently fetch more money than the ones of other colours; not sure how many colours they "come in" but I have seen gorgeous brown ones as well). They have quite a unique look with their heads seeming large because only their bodies are sheared.
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Red Book Entry: November 11, 2010
If one ever needed to remember just why it is such an amazing thing to be alive in this world, I invite them to come to Bolivia and take in the Andes, the people and the culture.
It is the evening of our fourth day and the light is spectacular -- that light that just envelops your soul. Llama are grazing across the laguna and a flock of sheep just ran by in a tidy bunch. The animals belong to the community; a random (or maybe not so random) scattering of three or four houses. Because nothing grows at this altitude, aside from Andean grasses, plants and some flowers, the community has a garden at around 4,100 to grow their vegetables.
Our two arriero friends, Hugo and Narcisio, left this evening to head home, roughly a four hour ride. (Two more lovely people I have had the opportunity to meet.) They both came in the cook tent (we were having tea) to say goodbye and we exchanged handshakes and hugs. Warm people.
Victoria, Felix's wife, joined us this evening and will be hanging out for the next three days. Victoria was traditionally dressed in her full skirt and layering of tops and a wrap. Women in the country dress traditionally; they do not wear pants. We all ate supper together (yummy, as usual) and there was much conversation in Aymara as well as in Spanish. Victoria was very quiet but did have a good laugh at the end when we told her the two Aymara words we knew: "hello" and "crucillo" which together, give you "Hello monkey."
It is the evening of our fourth day and the light is spectacular -- that light that just envelops your soul. Llama are grazing across the laguna and a flock of sheep just ran by in a tidy bunch. The animals belong to the community; a random (or maybe not so random) scattering of three or four houses. Because nothing grows at this altitude, aside from Andean grasses, plants and some flowers, the community has a garden at around 4,100 to grow their vegetables.
Our two arriero friends, Hugo and Narcisio, left this evening to head home, roughly a four hour ride. (Two more lovely people I have had the opportunity to meet.) They both came in the cook tent (we were having tea) to say goodbye and we exchanged handshakes and hugs. Warm people.
Victoria, Felix's wife, joined us this evening and will be hanging out for the next three days. Victoria was traditionally dressed in her full skirt and layering of tops and a wrap. Women in the country dress traditionally; they do not wear pants. We all ate supper together (yummy, as usual) and there was much conversation in Aymara as well as in Spanish. Victoria was very quiet but did have a good laugh at the end when we told her the two Aymara words we knew: "hello" and "crucillo" which together, give you "Hello monkey."
Sunday, November 27, 2011
Reb Book Entry: November 9, 2010
We are now set up in our second camp of our 12-day trek in the Cordillera Real [Bolivia]. We are a team of four: the guide, Andres; the cook, Felix; and two arrieros, Hugo and Narciso. And of course, our four-legged friends: three horses (with colourful tassles between their beautiful eyes) and two donkeys.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
The drive from La Paz to the start of our hike took about three hours. Along the way we picked-up Andres and Felix, who live in the same small community in the country. You really need to know that these pueblitos exist if you want half a chance of finding them; there are no signs and random dirt roads seem to lead nowhere. Vast lands.
We had been advised by several people as well as by reputation, of the lack of skilled mountain guides in Bolivia. Although Inga and I were feeling pretty comfortable with our research and choice, I was nonetheless happy to spend two hours with Eduardo, the owner of Bolivian Mountain Guides. At this point in our trekking as well as in our guided experiences, we know enough to know what we don't know as well as what we do know. So, as it turns out, I am happy with the team and feeling quite comfortable. This trek is not precipitated by our egoes so if we don't feel comfortable with either our skills or our guide, we will not ascend Huyana Potosi at 6,088m. I would of course love to have this experience but logic and instinct will determine the turn of events.
I have been surprised by the landscape of the Cordillera Real; it is completely different from the Cordillera Blanca in Peru (not that I didn't expect it but, in some way, it was unexpected). I imagine that this is what walking on the moon must be like. And then, over a pass, you bear witness to spectacular mountain peaks resplendant with glaciers. Definitely all very awe inspiring.
We have seen many llamas along the way, including where we camped last night.The herd of llamas belonged to the pueblo we started from and yesterday was tended by a young man from the pueblo, and an older man from the pueblo this morning. The elderly llama herder appeared to have many concerns. A long discussion ensued between the herder and each and every member of the team, in various formations. It was a very intense yet quiet conversation that seemed to have no end. The herder first wondered what we were doing in this particular spot, given that there is nothing but desert. He suspected us at first of being involved in the cocaine business. Once this suspicion was put to rest, he then suspected us of having killed and butchered one of his llamas (there are ladrones who do steal herds of llamas to sell the meat). In order to convince him that no such thing had happened, the man was invited to "search" our stuff. And search he did, as if a customs agent. Finally, all was good. I guess that it is hard for this herder to comprehend that we are trekking through the mountains purely for the pleasure. For him, it's a way of life.
As seems to be the tradition in mountain hiking culture, we will soon head into the cook tent to have 4:00 tea with our guide. It is a nice pause in the day, and depending on the weather, a hot cup of tea warms the body quite efficiently. Supper at around 6:30 finishes off the day. We then crawl into our tent to talk and read and write until sleep takes hold (along with the cold) at around 8:30. It is so different living by the rhythm of the day's natural cycle.
Thursday, November 24, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 29, 2010
We went over our last pass of this phenomenal trek shortly after leaving our camp at 4,500m. I am not sure what was going on with my belly but it felt as if I had five portions of breakfast. I had woken up around 6:30, no longer starving. Perhaps my body was a bit overworked trying to stay warm having to get up four times during the night to go to the bathroom. It sure is hard to drag myself out of my warm cocoon into the cold night. The bonus, however, is seeing the phenomenal night skies; brilliant black speckled with dazzling stars (I don't know constellations in my part of the hemisphere let alone those in South America -- suffice it to say that the stars are impressive) and a waning moon (which was still with us in a bright blue sky as we headed out of camp at 8:00).
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
We just got to camp on time as it started to hail and to hail and to hail, accompanied by strong winds. Talk about feeling among the elements. From our tent we looked out onto glacier capped moutains. I walked about when there was a break in the weather and was seduced by the mountains -- all I had to do was descend into the valley and up the other side -- so seemingly within reach. But so not.
Breakfast was outside today; the morning was the complete opposite to the night. The coffee was strong, the oatmeal pipping hot and, as with all the other mornings, the company was superb.
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Red Book Entry: A Little Tune
Libre como el aire
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Libre como el viento
Como las estrellas
En el firmamiento
I learned this sweet song several years ago in my flamenco class (to practice palmas). It has been the perfect refrain while trekking in these amazing mountains.
LIBRE : FREEDOM
Red Book Entry: October 28, 2010
I have been recording the trek day by day as I find it overwhelming to try and capture all that I see, all that I experience and all the emotions that move through me.
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Each encampamiento has been unique, as have the valleys we have crossed and the paths we have climbed. The camp we are at tonight, our second to last, is by a small lake and across the valley from massive glacial peaks. It feels as if I could reach out and touch them.
We made it to camp just on time; it started to hail. It did not last very long (or so I thought) as it started over, only this time in the form of rain. I am not sure if I heard thunder or if it was an avalanche in the distance. There is quite an echo in the mountains, making it hard for me to discern distances.
It will soon be tea time. I look forward to a hot cup of tea (I usually go for the mate de coca) on this damp afternoon. We are certainly treated extremely well by the kind team of people.
I am not bothered by the rain at the moment. We had awoken to a sun filled and blue sky day. And this sky graced us during our whole trek. Hopefully we will have the same luck tomorrow on our second to last trek. One more pass and then it's downhill from there!
Sunday, November 20, 2011
Red Book Entry: October 25, 2010
We are at the end of day five of our amazing trek. We started earlier today, with breakfast at 7:00 (the delight this morning, along with the "usual" pot of coffee, was a hot cereal made with rice). I did not know that rice grew in Peru, as does just about everthing else.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
The beginning of the trek was quick to get your attention as it rose from 4,250m to 4,850m. It was a splendid morning again (I am touching wood that our luck will continue) with the sun "turned on", the sky a gorgeous blue and Alpamayo in full view.
We were soon met by the arrieros, burros, horses and our cook extraordinaire. They do an amazing job taking down camp, packing the animals, getting to the next camp and setting it all up by the time we arrive. Very, very lovely people.
After another delicious lunch at the top of our second pass, we arrived at camp at 1:30ish. I washed some clothes and a few body parts in the cold river then explored the area with Inga. I don't know how I could have, but I forgot to mention that we walked through a herd of grazing alpacas just before reaching camp. There are three colours of alpacas: white, black and brown.
Our "usual" four o'clock tea with Eli was pleasant and informative. He brought out the map and we looked at the trekking for the next few days. Popcorn was the treat served up today and, because I tend to have a good appetite, I enjoyed two bowls.
It is now the post treat "tent time" to rest and catch-up with writing or reading before supper at 7:00. What a peaceful rhythm.
Red Book Entry: Mountain Menu
Desayuno
Almuerzo
- Flacky pastry stuffed with apples and cinnamon
- Fresh banana (one of three varieties grown here)
- Lactose-free yogurt drink
_______________
- Pancakes
- Coffee (Peruvian, of course)
- Toast with honey or jam
- Oatmeal
- Coffee
- Fresh mango and kiwi
- Yogurt drink and granola
- Coffee
Almuerzo
- Quinoa salad (red onion, nut of some sort, herbs, tangerines ...)
- Super delicious because it was eaten on a mountain
- Juice
- Make-your-own sandwich with hommus, cucumber and carrots
- Mate de coca
- Tangerine
- Make-your-own sandwich with cheese (cow, incredibly fresh),avocados!, tomatoes and boston lettuce
- Mate de coca
- Crackers with peanut butter (Humberto was not with us : (
- Boston lettuce, yellow potatoes, olives, sauce
- Mate de coca
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