GMC - Map

Here's a map of the Sir Sandford area. The red dot is where the camp was located. The red lines are the approaches and climbs. The green highlights are the four mountains Jan and I ascended during the GMC. This should give a bit of context. You'll note the similar approach for the two first mountains via the Haworth Glacier and the very different distances traveled to attain the first two summits described in the two previous posts.

GMC - July 31 - Citadel Mountain

The TNF group went to Citadel Mountain on their first day, when we took snow school. Their practice included kicking a set of beautiful steps heading up a steep snow arete on Citadel Mountain. We knew that today would be the last time this objective would be on the list, so we signed up. Despite the 4:30 am wake up, 5 am breakfast and 5:30 am start. (Wow, that's like half a day before my usual get up time!)

The summit ridge on Citadel Mountain. Exposed and exciting.

Angelika posing on the summit blocks.

Jan at the summit cairn :) Well done!

We left just as it started getting light out. A magical time in the mountains. Citadel was also all snow, but the summit was a rock.

It was a long walk over the Haworth glacier to Palisade Pass down to the Sir Sandford glacier and up Citadel. We took the same route back.

The weather was a bit concerning, but luckily it held on this day!

All around a great day was had by both rope teams lead by Andrew and Peter.

One of the impressive, exposed sections during the
ascent on the snow arete. (Photo by Ron Shute)

Threatening clouds rolled in while we were on the summit.
Clouds really do move fast when you are at 2,923 m,
and the weather  can change in a heartbeat.

GMC - July 30 - Summiting Alpina Dome

A typical day at the GMC starts with the 6 am wake up call, 6:30 am breakfast and a 7 or 7:30 am start of a climb. This is at least a 2 hour shift forward from my usual life. When in the mountains, it's usually important to move early and I do adapt in good humour. Each afternoon, 3 objectives were posted from which we could select our first and second choices.

Alpina Dome - you can make out 3 TNF rope teams on
the summit slope. We went around to the left out of the
photo around that rocky summit.

Alpina Dome was our first summit objective of the week. We traveled from camp up the Haworth Glacier and then hung a left to cross Palisade Pass and circumnavigate a rocky mountain out crop. Then up Alpina Dome in a steady climb. 

Rope team number two led by Brenda.
Note the ominous clouds.

Andrew was our rope team leader. Two other rope teams also were on this climb, plus The North Face (TNF) leadership course used it for their training of Alpine Club amateur leaders. When we got to the summit, the TNF group was still there; and the two other rope teams arrived shortly after us, each having taken variations on the route up.

Just as we got up there, the skies opened with hail and thunder started to move in, too. We got off the summit in a bit of a hurry; but not in such a hurry that we didn't take a slightly longer way down, via the Redan Pass. It was a bit of a scramble (on snow), and just as we regained the Haworth glacier for our final descent to camp, major lightening was right over our heads. It all worked out fine as you can see.

We got the rain gear out as we headed for camp to protect from the hail and keep warm as the temps dropped considerably. 

TNF group with their three instructors: Cyril, Dave and Matt.
These 10 leaders underwent an intense training week,
including plenty of classroom time plus long days outside.
An impressive group from ACC sections across Canada.

They always say be prepared for any weather in the mountains and especially quick changes in weather and temps. That's we we all carry these quite large day packs with rain gear, down jackets, gloves, food and drink, while our guides usually also carry some extra gear, in case the group runs into any trouble.

Click on any picture to see a larger version!

GMC - July 29 - Snow and Rock School

The team assembles for rock school on a glacier-polished cliff
15 minutes from our camp.

We have travelled on a glacier exactly once. It was in Bolivia, while ascending our first summit over 6,000 m, Huayna Potosi, in November 2010. Thus we were eager to take snow school to learn more about snow anchors, self-arrest (that came in handy a few days later) and walking on ice with crampons and in a rope team under the guidance of pro guide Jeff Bullock, Alpine Air Adventures, and Chucky, an ACC amateur leader.

Snow school was informative. We got reminded of some basic knots some we know super well (like the Figure 8) and others we found the reminder useful because we haven't used them as much, like the Munter and Clove hitch.

Inga and Jan quite intent on building a T-slot snow anchor
well. Jeff's providing the oversight. (Photo by R. Shute.)

Snow school was also fun: we got to hurl ourselves down the snow slope with a running start for the self-arrest with mountaineering axe practice. We practiced sliding on the back, head first, butt first. And we got to see just how to arrest such an unintended slide.

The afternoon was spent climbing on rock. It had been a while and reminded us how much we love it. Our next Adironodacks trip will see us back at the Beer Walls near Chapel Pond or on the slabby pyramid on Notch mountain with views of Whiteface!

A close up of the end of the Silver tip glacier. This huge
ice fall is located just up from the climbing cliff. 

GMC - July 28 - Arrival

We'll put up a separate post with highlights from each day of the General Mountaineering Camp. On Saturday, July 28, we drove from Golden to the heli-pad down the logging road at Kinbasket Lake. It was our first time in a helicopter. Exciting.

First look at the helicopter. It takes 6 passengers, plus pilot and
naturally everyone's gear and lots of food for the week.

Arriving at camp.




Our home for the week. We were in the "Eastern block" - the
furthest from the dining tent and the horn alerting us to wakeup
and meals. We spent the week living right by the
glacial run off (almost lake) from the Haworth glacier. The tents
were huge, compared to our own 2-person tent.
We had a luxurious amount of space for gear and sleeping.

In the centre of this photo is our camp seen from the edge of
the Silvertip Glacier. The white tents are the communal tents
for dining, tea, gear drying, kitchen, supplies.



Getting the horses ready

The team's getting ready to head out to Yoho this morning. Jan's giving a hand grooming these fine  horses we'll take out. We are going out with our guide and an assistant; two additional horses will be pack horses to carry tents, food etc.

Getting excited - and a bit nervous - now.

Bear Corner Bed and Bale

Yes, that is what our trail riding outfitter's called. Here's Jan at our cabin (we'll be here tonight and again once we come out of the backcountry). And in this shot you might see some of Al's horses way in background.

Tomorrow we are heading out to Yoho National Park, up Ottertail Trail and set up our backcountry camp. Should be interesting. Al and his helper are both retired Park Wardens. Those folks have a lot of backcountry know-how that we'll be sure to benefit from.

Now, we settle in and I'm hoping my single bar for cell reception will suffice to get this post through.

General Mountaineering Camp (GMC)

 Last week we spent in the Selkirks near Sir Sandford mountain. We had a fantastic time there, working our way up several summits with great guides and in excellent rope team company. The Alpine Club of Canada has been undertaking this camp since 1906; so we've joined this awesome tradition finally.

The weather was good most days. We started with settling in at camp on Saturday. The bit of rain that afternoon wasn't of any consequence. Sunday was snow school: crampons, ice axes, self-arrest, rope team logistics all figured large.

Monday we did our first climb: Alpina Dome. It was a dome: huge summit area and all snow ascend. Things got a bit worrisome on the way down as hail, thunder and lightening moved in. We hurried as much as we could down the glacier and into camp. All was well. Tuesday, we went out to Citadel mountain - a long glacier walk out and then up a steep snow arete, with lots of exposure. Memorable for sure.

Wednesday, despite myself, Jan and I headed up on a rope team with our guide Peter to Silvertip. A mix of rock and ice, it made for an interesting ridge experience with lots of loose rock and steep climbing sections to gain the summit. Thursday we got rained out: day and night. A well needed rest day, which was filled with more skills and information on mountain craftiness.

Friday we took on Azimouth - the glacier crossing was followed by a long rocky ridge with several intermediate summits. A worthy final climb of our week. Friday night's talent show featured some memorable moments using many windstoppers (buffs).

Saturday we helicoptered out and then caught our ride back to Golden. Sad to leave this time and place and the people we got to know in camp.

Pics will come later - having trouble with uploading from our cameras :(

Kicking Horse

We're celebrating my arrival in Canada 24 years ago today sitting atop the Kicking Horse Mountain Resort outside of Golden, BC. We've enjoyed a tasty lunch at the Eagle Eye restaurant.

Today, is a rest day: we took the Gondola up :) -- unlike this Jeep, which really did drive up the mountain. One of the better ads I've seen in a while.

It feels a bit odd to look out at mountains we did not ascend, but it is beautiful. We've skied here before and definitely put this mountain into the "recommend" section.

Lakes O'Hara and McArthur

Today we hiked into Lake O'Hara to spend the day with good friends from T.O. We hiked up to Lake McArthur and had a fine trail lunch. Here's pictoral proof :)

We'll try tomorrow to post a few choice pics from our awesome Alpine Club General Mountaineering Camp. We loved every moment in the Selkirks Sir Sandford area. We summited 4 mountains: Alpina Dome, Citadel, Silvertip and Azimuth.
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